Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just today i noticed that my oil gauge is constantly on 0-0.5 when i start the car, and the red lights on, until about 5 minutes after the cars been running, then it just shoots up to about 2 and the lights goes off....

what do you make of this? is it serious or not?

also, without sounding too much like a cock, what does this gauge indicate and how can i fix the problem ::)

my cars a 89 R32 RB20DET

any help would be much appreciated :D

thanks alot, steve :laugh:

Edited by KLowN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122068-oil-gauge-on-red-light/
Share on other sites

UH-OH!! Sounds just like my RB20 that is currently just had the crank and rods replaced because the countersunk screws in the back of the oil pump had come right out.

Then again it COULD be the sender but dont procrastinate, get the true oil pressure checked with another gauge/sender or you could be hearing that clattering noise noone could diagnose accuratly on my RB20DET because it would come and go intermittently.

Yes it could have been a lifter but is WAS NOT!

ok, update.

i just took it for another drive.

when the car starts up, the oil light is on.

after about 15 seconds, the oil gauge goes up to 1.8

it remains there for the rest of the drive.

is 1.8 a normal level for oil pressure?

PLEASE HELP I ONLY BOUGHT THIS CAR ON SATURDAY AND THE PROBLEMS ARE ENDLESS.

Yeah mate, even if gauge is faulty the red light wont come on unless it actually has no oil pressure. But it saying that the sender could be stuffed completely.

Does the engine sound rattley while the light is on?

Blow smoke?

Use any oil?

Basically stop driving it and check it out immediatley you might be lucky that no damage is done....yet :P

Edited by GTAHH

mm....the worst part is, if id only been told about whats wrong with the car, i would not have bought it, as this all happened during my uni exams, leaving me to find alternate ways to get there on time, and too busy worrying about my car/being pissed off, to study :unsure:

thats life i guess.....

  • 2 weeks later...

just wanted to ask you guys

is it normal for an r32 oil gauge light on when the engine is off??

cause my oil gauge lights up whenever engine is off

and the oil gauge light goes off whenever engine is on

:P

is this normal guys? help would be much appreciated

cheers

Edited by Marlboro Reds
just wanted to ask you guys

is it normal for an r32 oil gauge light on when the engine is off??

cause my oil gauge lights up whenever engine is off

and the oil gauge light goes off whenever engine is on

:)

is this normal guys? help would be much appreciated

cheers

Of course that's normal. How can the car have oil pressure when the motors not running? :sorcerer:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Started sifting thru my brakes to decide which ones I will run on Clem   Made me think I should just put them all on Silver...for when brake fade just isn't an option   Should be able to bump rotor up from 343x32 to 348x36 off Supra. Not sure if the Supra annulus is right for the Alcons or APs but trying g to find a used Supra\M4 rotor to test fit The Alcons seem to gain 1-2mm clearance which all helps  
    • So car is getting a few mods to the cage and some jacking points welded in Meantime Ol Silver gets a new gearbox and shiny clutch.  Old Box is being set aside for Clem  
    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
×
×
  • Create New...