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Sheesh, the amount of money that we can spend on our cars can get out of hand if we are not careful.....$15,000!! thats almost as much as my gts-t! As someone said, having 400bhp on the treads for a street car might be a bit too much (just my opinion). If its for drag or track, then perhaps yeah it might be a lot of fun......:)

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Also remember that 400hp at the treads won't be in first or second as a turbo sized to provide such airflow doesn't get going until third and fourth.

You will find it is quite crap in first, second is ok then third rips.

The only way to get around this is either supercharge OR displacement. :)

From what I can see here, the hi-flow is no good for big power (i.e. 250rwkw or more). What about 220rwkw? I think that would be a nice target for a regular street car.

I am looking for a turbo that is not too expensive and will bolt up with minimal modification.

I was thinking of using a GCG hi-flow at around 14-15 psi with FMIC, PFC, EBC, full exhaust, probably GTR fuel pump, and maybe some Nismo injectors.

Is there a better turbo for this application?

Before I got the 2835ProS I managed to squeeze 220.8 rwkw out of the stock turbo (Series I) with Plazmaman FMIC+Plenum,Pod,Fuel cut defender and full 3" exhaust.

UAS still have the dyno sheet at http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...ts/plazmadu.gif

My GTS-T was done in 3 main stages:

StageI:

- Plazmaman FMIC + Plenum [ these are excellent ]

- K&N Pod + CAI

- Manual boost controller

- 3" Dump pipe [ already had 3" from cat back ]

- All fluids replaced

- Turbosmart BOV (plumb back)

- Splitfire coil packs

- Iridium spark plugs

- Fuel cut defender + dyno tune

- ~220.8 rwkw

StageII:

- OS Giken Adjustable Cam gear

- HKS cams (264/9 I think)

- timing belt, idler, etc

- Xtreme Clutch

- Xtreme lightened flywheel

- Nismo gearbox mount

- Race cat

- Power FC + Dyno tune

- ~217 rwkw [ but more mid-range ]

StageIII:

- Eboost2

- HKS 2835ProS

- Nismo Fuel pump

- Nismo 740cc injectors

- Cam adjustments

- Dyno tune

- ~280 rwkw

Thats about $7k per stage, (give or take) probably more for me as I paid for all the labour as well. I do recommend the plazmaman stuff - it really flows well and looks tops.

In progress:

StageIV:

- 16mm tie rod ends

- 324mm brakes upgrade

- Tein type flex coilovers

- Kaaz 1.5way diff

- lightweight single piece tailshaft

- HICAS lock

- bushes, upper rear control arms, etc

TODO:

StageV:

Tomei RB28 stroker kit for RB25DET (yummy)

Hope this helps.

Luke

keep reading the threads about 250+kw form a gtst...why spend 15k on one? u can't get it to the road easily anyway...just go an get yourself a GTR R33...stock its pretty damn good.

my GTST runs at about 200rwkw..although I have it now set to about 10psi and its about 185-190..I find that to be fast enough for normal street use...esp. in the wet...u will recondider when you hit a pole in the wet cos the rear end lost traction...putting all the "u can't drive comments" aside rwd + high power + wet roads = be careful...it only takes one time when u wanna hoon past some1 and bam...

of course everyone will shoot me down...but when I had a rolling start with a 911-t he didn't beat me by as much as u would expect considering the price difference...and he was worried for a bit also....damn he went fast tho :)

I only spend 3k on mods...priceless.

this is only my opinion...unless u setting your car up for drags/racing etc don't waste 2 much money (cos back when u sell it) on the GTST...

of course...do what u want and hope to see u get big numbers....I do agree that 250+ would be awsome...but not when i do the cost/benift analysis in my head..

Edited by khunjeng
expenses increase as earning capacity increases.

Come back in 5 years and tell us how much you spent on xyz. :thumbsup:

Look at my avtar...I have more than one car and know what ur saying..

My point was. if you car is a daily driver...make it drivable and look good, its not hard to get to 200rwkw. If you wanna crazy power car..save and buy a car that can put it to the road without being to unsafe.

don't get me wrong...I love my R33 GTST...awsome car for the money I rekcon. But I don't see the point of spending 15k on engine mods and be beaten by a stock GTR.

I think I have seen Paul33 say in a few posts...make the car drivable..unless it s track/drag car. Its all good to wack a big turbo..massive FMIC/ tripple plate clutch etc...then try driving it to work every day.

thats the trick though isn't it, making a daily driver that has great power/acceleration but still drives well enough to take to work or the local shop.

as for a stock GTR being faster than a gts-t with 15k of mods, highly doubt that

i dunno why people get uptight about how much money others spend on their cars, its their choice and as long as they're having fun and not getting ripped off then who cares

you gotta have your toys otherwise what the point of working all day everyday?

better than pissing it up the wall or shooting it up your vein

thats the trick though isn't it, making a daily driver that has great power/acceleration but still drives well enough to take to work or the local shop.

as for a stock GTR being faster than a gts-t with 15k of mods, highly doubt that

i dunno why people get uptight about how much money others spend on their cars, its their choice and as long as they're having fun and not getting ripped off then who cares

you gotta have your toys otherwise what the point of working all day everyday?

better than pissing it up the wall or shooting it up your vein

fair enough...I don't care what anyones does...its a forum and I just posted up different view. I'II take the GTR, in the end of the day it will transfer the power to the road and be a better drive on wet conditions...not to mention twisty roads. I was a bit over zellous with the stock bit...

as for the money, I got a better idea mate - make more money with it?

Edited by khunjeng

Back on topic though, he's got a GTS already and 7k to spend ... like I said before you could sell what you;ve got and buy a pre-modded GTS or add a bit more and buy a stock R33 GTR, or follow my path and implement StageI as described above. If you do what I did then you'll end up spending over 20k but you end up with a 280rwkw daily driver.

Granted, I now have traction problems - is why i;m doing StageIV outlined above. But my plans are to do a little drag and circuit for fun.. truth is I'll be getting a "family car" soonish so my wife can drive the bubba around :D at that point I may sell my current setup and drop in a 26/30 :thumbsup:

'nuff said

Before I got the 2835ProS I managed to squeeze 220.8 rwkw out of the stock turbo (Series I) with Plazmaman FMIC+Plenum,Pod,Fuel cut defender and full 3" exhaust.

UAS still have the dyno sheet at http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...ts/plazmadu.gif

My GTS-T was done in 3 main stages:

StageI:

- Plazmaman FMIC + Plenum [ these are excellent ]

- K&N Pod + CAI

- Manual boost controller

- 3" Dump pipe [ already had 3" from cat back ]

- All fluids replaced

- Turbosmart BOV (plumb back)

- Splitfire coil packs

- Iridium spark plugs

- Fuel cut defender + dyno tune

- ~220.8 rwkw

Hope this helps.

Luke

Thanks mate, that is good info. The stuff you have listed here is pretty much what I had in mind. I thought of changing the plenum, but not sure if it really helps much at this level. The other difference really is I will be using Power FC. From the dyno sheet looks like you were using about 1 bar boost, which is where mine will be. Did you make this on the stock fuel system?

Thanks mate, that is good info. The stuff you have listed here is pretty much what I had in mind. I thought of changing the plenum, but not sure if it really helps much at this level. The other difference really is I will be using Power FC. From the dyno sheet looks like you were using about 1 bar boost, which is where mine will be. Did you make this on the stock fuel system?

The main thing is the FMIC, dont skimp on that one. The plazmaman has nice swept back end tanks and good core. ARC I believe make the best cores.

Should be able to make close to 220 with stock air box (with good K&N filter) and stock plenum. Need a good 3" dump + 3" cat back.

Yes stock fuel system at that point. Needed a fuel cut defender on the stock ECU though.

Cheers

The main thing is the FMIC, dont skimp on that one. The plazmaman has nice swept back end tanks and good core. ARC I believe make the best cores.

Should be able to make close to 220 with stock air box (with good K&N filter) and stock plenum. Need a good 3" dump + 3" cat back.

Yes stock fuel system at that point. Needed a fuel cut defender on the stock ECU though.

Cheers

I will be using an ARC 470x260mm "turn-flow" intercooler, Power FC, GCG Hi-flow at 14-15psi and 3" into 3.5" exhaust. I will also be getting a tune up with new plugs, coils, fluids etc. Hopefully I can obtain a result similar to yours. Did you ever do a quarter mile with your Stage 1 setup?

hey guys I've been having a good read over the many threads on this fantastic site - you guys over in oz have really tinkered with these motors over the years and tried stuff out and its great to read the results and see what people are doing :dry:

I am planning a few modifications to my own 33gtst - my plan is to get about 300-350bhp maximum under the hood of my car. heres a list of bits I plan on getting - just wondering if you guys think its a good plan of attack really hehe!

I have the classic hesitation prob at higher revs - I've furiously read through the many threads on this site and I'm gonna try and fix the coilpacks and clean them up overall.

I would like to remove the 2stage boost so it sits at 0.75bar all the time.

the reason for doing these things first is I would like to see how my car runs prior to going further with stuff.

-apexi powerfc and a remap - this is essential in my eyes as I'm just not gonna be able to make the most of the modifications I would like to do afterward. I can have the currently installed (and old) SAFC removed too whilst at it as the PFC should do the job of that really (I hope!)

-upgraded intercooler - I dont really like front mounts - too much butchering and I read that putting one on with the standard turbo can actually stress the turbo. I was gonna try and source an R34gtt intercooler - I read somewhere that they're good for higher levels of boost and go in the usual underwing position of the current one.

-front pipe for the turbo to work a little better. cannot find one for love or money in the uk for a 33gtst but I'm still digging about :)

-I have bought a new standard turbo but the shaft has snapped due to previous owner installing as new then thinking he could run 1.7bar of boost on ceramic components (chump) ..anyhow I plan on getting this converted into hybrid turbo - steel internals, 360thrust bearing, larger compressor wheel and turbine wheels. I dont want a bigger turbo as that would just be more laggy but a small one with grunt would suit me fine :D

-uprated clutch - gonna need it soon - current one is joking me about!!

-uprated oil cooler and fuel pump maybe?

-Z32 - got this sat at home - no point fitting till PFC is in really

I'm not after insane power but plenty of torque will do me and if I see a hike in acceleration and power throughout the range I'll be more than happy :rofl:

I have a big bore zorst on it (kakimoto I think is it?), a decat pipe and hks induction pod filter and its going well (aside from hesitation which I've read plenty about on here so not gonna ask about it if you can believe what your reading hehehehe!).

anyhow these are my thoughts - I'm no expert or anything so anything you suggest assume I'm a muppet - I've done alot of reading on this and other sites and pestered skyline owners till they've literally told me to get lost hehe but any thoughts are more than welcome :rofl:

cheers

ant

uk

-upgraded intercooler - I dont really like front mounts - too much butchering and I read that putting one on with the standard turbo can actually stress the turbo. I was gonna try and source an R34gtt intercooler - I read somewhere that they're good for higher levels of boost and go in the usual underwing position of the current one.

cheers

ant

uk

This is why I chose an ARC Turn Flow cooler, not only is ARC a good brand, the cooler also uses the stock piping. Instead of a pipe going through the chassis on the drivers side, the pipe goes back under the cooler to the standard pipe to the throttlebody.

Here is a pic of what I mean, the R33 kit is top left.

post-27958-1150855685.gif

fantastic Ben!! that looks really cool - what kind of bhp can that ARC 33kit hold then? overall what do you think of the mods I'd like to do - anything you could suggest?

*edit* was also wanting to get splitfire coil packs - heard lots of great things about em and their durability :D nice bright blue too - that'll have me removing the plastic coilpack cover on top hehe!

Edited by anthonymcgrath
fantastic Ben!! that looks really cool - what kind of bhp can that ARC 33kit hold then? overall what do you think of the mods I'd like to do - anything you could suggest?

*edit* was also wanting to get splitfire coil packs - heard lots of great things about em and their durability >_< nice bright blue too - that'll have me removing the plastic coilpack cover on top hehe!

I don't think your target of 350bhp will be a problem for the ARC.

Apparently the splitfire coils are the way to go, not cheap though, I will be upgrading to these pretty soon.

thats it mate I'm not after a massive hike but I would like to be able to say 'yeah if I fancy taking it up a bit more of a notch' then I can as I know the other goodies under there will smile and just come back for more >_<

I wouldn't bother with splitfires until yours die.

or.. I guess you could sell your working coils and put the $$ towards a set of split fires so you KNOW they will not have problems in the future. :D

Now thats got me thinking.

for 1k...there are probably some better power mods u can do instead of getting some spitfires...

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