Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1986 R31 Skyline GX

305000kms

Dual Fuel (Petrol and LPG)

5spd Manual

Located in Brisbane

Body:

White

Series 3 Tail Lights

Modified Series 3 Front Bumper with lip and clear indicators

Spoiler

15" 5 spoke CSA wheels

Tinted Windows

Suspension and Brakes:

King's Low Springs

KYB Front Shocks

Monroe Rear Shocks

Whiteline Strut Tower Brace

DBA Brake Rotors

Bendix Advance Brake Pads

Modifications:

K&N Pod Filter

Pacemaker Extractors

3" High Flow Cat

2.5" Exhaust with hotdog resonator and straight through muffler

NGK Ignition leads and spark plugs

Timing Advanced on dyno to suit 98 RON fuel and LPG (higher octane than petrol)

Interior:

Autotecnica Steering Wheel, Gear Knob and Boot, Pedals, Window Winders

SAAS Handbrake Lever and Boot

Autogauge Oil Pressure and Volts Gauges on pillar

Clarion Head Unit

Eclipse 6.5" 3-way Front Speakers

808875_40_full.jpg

808875_39_full.jpg

808875_38_full.jpg

808875_21_full.jpg

The following additional parts have been replaced in the last 18 months:

Battery

Alternator Reconditioned

All Fluids Changed

All belts replaced including timing belt

Distributor Cap and Rotor

Thermostat

Fuel Filter

Windscreen

Oxygen and Coolant Temp Sensors

This car has served me well but I'm about to buy an R33 so the time has come to let it go. It runs beautifully on both fuels, makes good power, is cheap to run on LPG and handles great. It will be sold with 6 months registration and current safety and gas certificates, ready for you to transfer registration and drive away. I still have the majority of original parts (air box, Series 1 lights and bumper etc) if these are required.

Asking for $4500 ono.

Contact Matthew Scott on 0402779095

Edited by _Scotty_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122225-modified-dual-fuel-r31/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

mate very interested, but dont QUITE have the cash, if the price drops, let me know. Ill keep an eye on this, though. If you still have it in a couple of months or so, its mine!

rob

  • 2 weeks later...

whereabouts in brissie are you, mate? If you could give me a price for the car sans the stereo, thatd be awesome. keep the wheels, too, if thatd get you down some more. dunno how theyd look on your r33 though...

and thank god you took those nissan stickers off the rear view mirrors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...