Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the interest.

The price that I have posted is a fair price my friend. It's less than half of the retail price.

If you are in Sydney and what to have a look let me know

cheers

What type of throttle body suits this Plenum?

Standard or aftermarket?

Specs of the Throttle body u have with it please?

Will u be willing to do the Plenum, throttle body and cable to suit as a package? I don't need the cooler or piping..

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
I have a number of parts for sale after taking my car back to standard and selling it.

The parts I have available are as follows

Ohlin's shocks and wanabe springs $900

Caster rods adjustable/rose joints $150 sold

Caster rod brace( cusco) $120 sold

Rear camber adjustment arms/rose joints $120 sold

Sub frame bushes $50 sold

Will sell as a complete pack for $1100. excellent upgrade

Nismo 1 way mechanical diff in housing with flanges to suit GTST $700

Plenum front mounted throttle body $500

throttle body $80

Cable to suit front mount $100

Piping to siut front mount plenum and intercooler $180

FMIC $250

Sell as a pack for $950

Exhaust mainfold. Japanese made,stainless steel,T3 flange,ceramic coated,port matched.

$700 ono

ROH Drift R rims with tyres. 235/40/18", 265/35/18".

Pirelli and sports contact 2 respectively. 50% tread

$2000

I will listen to offers as long as they are reasonable.

If you require photo's leave a bump/pm and I will send it to you. I having trouble attatching photo's on the site

cheers

still got parts mate i live in sydney and wont jerk ya round

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...