Jump to content
SAU Community

Blow Off Problems

33SUM

By 33SUM,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

33SUM Enthusiast

33SUM

Posted
Posted

bought a dodgy blow off valve ( first ebay experience ) when i fit it the car was having all sorts of idling problems major power surges and just plain no power at all... took it off after the mechanics told me it was the bov not working properly...

since putting the stock bov back on i'm still getting idling problems when starting the car up (when cold) and it takes a minute to be able to free rev the engine because it sort of coffs and sputtlers.... also when driving the bov is much louder and it sounds like theres a a/m bov on there, it's releasing between gears and when coming off boost...

my mechanic checked it out and told me it's probably a computer problem and to see an auto electrician but that still doesn't explain the bov being so noisy, does it???

please help i know very little but don't wanna pay any more money to not get it fixed.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124685-blow-off-problems/
Share on other sites
33SUM Enthusiast

33SUM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah it's connected properly weve tested it with that spray on leak findind stuff..

it's clamped an all but i personally think its leaking some were as well... but where???

cant follow the bov return pipe down far enough to see without pulling all the smic pipes out the mech's tested as far down as they could see but no good... could it be that the bov is releasing more down the return pipe now and as a result making more noise??

when driving it's only going bout 80% power but the turbo sounds like it's winding up much louder than before...

a big lesson has been learned bout buying cheap car parts....

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

was there a restrictor in the piping when you first took the stock bov off? i have heard of a few people that have found a restrictor plate plugging up part of the plumback pipe directly after the bov. if there was and that is no longer there then that is the extra noise problem.

DREW32 Enthusiast

DREW32

Posted
Posted
oh well i'll soon find out off to the auto electrician.. will post results thanks guys

could you tell me what sort of bov you bought as i just bought one off ebay and when it arrived didnt look like a fair dinkum one it is a supposedly hybrid supersonic bov and not to sure to fit it now or not

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

auto electrician?

What a waste.

You had sparks plugs in there when you had the crap bov which caused overfueling and coughing and spluttering.

They are fouled.

Take them out, buy a new set of spark plugs (NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them)), put them in and it should be all good.

Cost you about $4 each plug.

33SUM Enthusiast

33SUM

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well there was no computer problem, just a loose hose connection coming off the turbo...

i thought it was leaking and i was right and two different mechanics couldn't figure it out.. the auto electrician did...

thanks for the suggestions guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...