Jump to content
SAU Community

Blue Smoke

Botters

By Botters,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

Normally its the Valve stem seals that are stuffed when you start the car and it blows blue smoke.

If the seal is stuffed around the valve then overnight or over a period of time oil leaks down on top of the Piston creating a nice pool of oil for the morning when you start it up hence the puff of blue smoke.

However the oil leak is not enough to notice once that initial oil has burnt, and you wont notice any blue smoke when you drive.....until you leave it turned off for a long enough period and the oil builds up again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125337-blue-smoke/#findComment-2314730
Share on other sites
PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

If it is your valve stem seals this would be the cheapest fix of all the Oil burning related engine problems >_<

The valve stem seals themselves are only a few dollars, but its still fairly time consuming removing and replacing them all.

Best Guess $400.....?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125337-blue-smoke/#findComment-2314746
Share on other sites
ToF Experienced

ToF

Posted
Posted
Normally its the Valve stem seals that are stuffed when you start the car and it blows blue smoke.

If the seal is stuffed around the valve then overnight or over a period of time oil leaks down on top of the Piston creating a nice pool of oil for the morning when you start it up hence the puff of blue smoke.

However the oil leak is not enough to notice once that initial oil has burnt, and you wont notice any blue smoke when you drive.....until you leave it turned off for a long enough period and the oil builds up again.

Interesting you say that and it makes sense.

I *think* my RB20 is reasonably healthy given it's still running and nothings changed while I've been giving it a hard time. >_< But I do remember not using it for about a month or so a while back and when I went to start it and this huge puff of blue smoke came out on start up. But since then I have yet to see a mist of blue smoke, I'll assume it's because I drive it at more regular intervals now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125337-blue-smoke/#findComment-2314751
Share on other sites
sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
Posted

hey pull your spark plugs out have a look and see if there is any oil on top of the piston (screwdriver and a rag), or get yaself a compression tester from super cheap there like 30 bucks (or get your mech to do it if your unsure) and check the compression.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125337-blue-smoke/#findComment-2314754
Share on other sites
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

do a compression test. This is the easiest way of determining what's wrong.

If it's lower than 120psi or if it's very low in one cylinder, put about 10ml of oil in each cylinder and do the test again.

-if the compression is good (all above 120psi and no more than 15psi variation between cylinders) then i'd say it's the turbo seals

-if the compression rises on the second test it's definantly rings or pistons

-if the compression doesn't rise on the second test, then it's valve related (or could also be the head gasket), i'd say stem seals most likely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125337-blue-smoke/#findComment-2315118
Share on other sites
Botters Enthusiast

Botters

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys i started the car this morning, so its been sitting there the same amount of time last night if not longer. And there wasnt a trace of blue smoke on start up, but just a bit of blackish smoke when i got my g/f to rev it up a bit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125337-blue-smoke/#findComment-2315202
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...