Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Well about a week ago my ABS warning light came on in my R33 GTS25t. I thought it must just be the pads need replacing, as I know they were getting low. Anyway, I've had a look and the pads seem ok for now, so I thought I'd try an emergency brake. The wheels locked up, so my ABS is caput...

Brake fluid level is fine..

Could it be wheel speed sensor related, or is it the actual ABS unit? If so how much are parts to replace/repair? I don't know a whole lot about this..

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125473-my-abs-is-bunged/
Share on other sites

hay man it must be the week for abs

also to this thread my abs light came on this morning and now i have brand new breaks and also the fluid is still in the zone of narly full but have now toped it up.

also so on the way to work i did a abs stop from 60 and i got some still but not as hard as normal when the abs kicks in

so to jump on your thread

Hey all,

Well about a week ago my ABS warning light came on in my R33 GTS25t. I thought it must just be the pads need replacing, as I know they were getting low. Anyway, I've had a look and the pads seem ok for now, so I thought I'd try an emergency brake. The wheels locked up, so my ABS is caput...

Brake fluid level is fine..

Could it be wheel speed sensor related, or is it the actual ABS unit? If so how much are parts to replace/repair? I don't know a whole lot about this..

Cheers :thumbsup:

.. try check all ur fuses under the bonnet. i had blown fuse once which caused abs light to come on..

Edited by dezzabye123

Yo guys, I had exactly the same prob with my ABS.

Checked fuses, I've got PFC so i couldnt check diagnostics.. Checked sensors, everything. Ended up being a busted ABS module (The thing in the top right of your engine bay with all the lines running into it)

I got a replacement off someone on SAU for $80, and got a brake place to fit it (cost about $50).. Good as new!!

Just make sure to check the model number of the replacement before you buy it! Keep an eye out for wrecking R33 threads, and post a WANT TO BUY ad in the WANT TO BUY section :P

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
×
×
  • Create New...