Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I was wondering whether I can get some help diagnosing a surging problem.

Basically, the car isn't boosting properly, it stutters/surges when I put my foot flat to the floor after I've been driving it for a few minutes with an intake temperature of about 20 degrees at the air flow meter, all the way to 6000rpm - then it underboosts at 8 / 9 psi (but really hard) to rev limiter at 7000. However, if you stop and let it idle for about 5 minutes aand let the temperature get up to 40+ then it boosts harder than I've felt it do before, but the guage reads less boost than it should be running (set to 10 with a manual boost controller - but boosts around 8 / 9 psi).

My fuel effieciency is really bad as well at the moment, but I don't have any fuel leaks. (For those familiar with wakefield park raceway I was going through a 1/4 of a tank of petrol per 15 minutes track time). It also has weird idle surging as well, it bounces sometimes, from about 600 to 1400rpm.

The car has aftermarket pod filter, FMIC, BOV, boost controller, HKS PFC-CON (Piggyback computer) - that's all that I know about.

Any one had anything similiar to this? I am out of ideas.

Edited by JDSracing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125497-r33-gts-t-surging-problem/
Share on other sites

yea mines very similar, mine runs better with warmer air then colder air. it overboosts at night, and runs beautifully during the warm days, my fuel consumption is not to impressive, (but then again i got a heavy foot). im putting in a power fc next week, hopfull when they tune it they will come along the problem.

but as far as fixing it, check your fuel filter, alot of the time they are completly clogged full of crap, theck your coilpacks (swap them around), sparkplugs (gap them, i find that mine run better at .7 rather then 1.0), if possible pull an afm off a mates car put it on your and see if it makes a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...