Jump to content
SAU Community

Qld Importers

stink

By stink,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

stink Enthusiast

stink

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I dealt with SVI..I found them to be quite good

Thanks for the reply Bunta,

Yeah my main concern at this stage is other than the normal mechanical tests that they do when importing a vehicle, how do you know the vehicle is in good condition internally etc like they dont do pressure tests or anything like that do they?

I mean sure the car may look fine and seem to be free from any major problems but i am in Townsville so i wouldnt be able to get any further mechanical testing done until i got it home and to find then that something major is wrong with it would gut me.

Cheers Stink

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125648-qld-importers/#findComment-2320113
Share on other sites
Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the reply Bunta,

Yeah my main concern at this stage is other than the normal mechanical tests that they do when importing a vehicle, how do you know the vehicle is in good condition internally etc like they dont do pressure tests or anything like that do they?

I mean sure the car may look fine and seem to be free from any major problems but i am in Townsville so i wouldnt be able to get any further mechanical testing done until i got it home and to find then that something major is wrong with it would gut me.

Cheers Stink

They dont know all that stuff! No one does. That is reflected in the cheaper price I suppose! It is always a little gamble....Ring Zac at SVI, he is a great guy and he will tlak you through their whole process!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125648-qld-importers/#findComment-2320167
Share on other sites
mrgilly Proficient

mrgilly

Posted
Posted

You can use others (J-Spec, Prestige, Mark Hocking etc) and the car is shipped to QLD... the way I see it, unless you're buying the car from a yard (and view it in person) then it doesn't matter where anyone is as you do the purchase via phone/email

Just my $0.02

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125648-qld-importers/#findComment-2320319
Share on other sites
stink Enthusiast

stink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys,

I have spoken to a few importers now but the level of service and effort that Mick from SVI has gone to has been excellent.

I have punished him with questions and he has answered them all where others just couldnt be bothered.

Looks like SVI for me

Thanks for the rep's all

Stink

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125648-qld-importers/#findComment-2323013
Share on other sites
ookami Experienced

ookami

Posted
Posted

I've recently imported, my only advice from it, is if you have the time go through one of the bigger ones (mark hocking, j-spec, prestige), as you have to some of the work yourself, but you've always got someone to haress when stuff doesn;t go to plan, but it does give you an insight of how to import, that way by the end of it you've made some contacts (ie compliance, customs agents) and the netx time you cna do it yourself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125648-qld-importers/#findComment-2323911
Share on other sites
frankxinyu Mentor

frankxinyu

Posted
Posted
Try Rotties Auto Imports call 38233538 they can get R33 Compliance Plate for $2500+GST+Tyres and they are petty genuine my friend bought 2 R33 from them a very good price

yeah, Patrick is really well priced....good guy to deal with. apart from SVi, i recommand him as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125648-qld-importers/#findComment-2324034
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...