Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Talking about braided brake lines. I went into PIRTEK, who are a major sponsor of motor sport, only to be told that they are not certified to do brake hoses. I thought that very odd. This is inBrisvegas.

Anyone out there know where to get braided lines here, not only for Stageas, but also S13 and 180s?

PS Hope I havn't double posted this.lol

Hugh

This is the company to use

Street legal

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=174350

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey darrin im waiting for the tutorial on putting a r34 gtr front on the mighty stagea :whistling:

whats the cost worked out all up for you? and do u still plan on making a mould of the masa gaurds or are you not bothering?

Brad

I have spoken to MFX in Sydney about doing a copy of the guards

I have got them to pay for freight from Brisbane to Sydney and return and copy the guards all for free

They would be the final owner of the moulds

From speaking to them on the phone, they sound like they take care and know what they are doing

Even thou the Masa front guards quailty is as good as fibreglass panels get. MFX want to make a quick mould and make a new set of guards and then would need to trial fit to a car before making the final moulds. So they would need a donor vehicle in Sydney to do this.

I better sort this out next week, otherwise Imight get delayed.

cost so far

Masa guards $1100, S/hand genuine bonnet $650 and front bar $1000, headlights $550, R34 GTT bonnet hinges and rod $50. Still need to get new from Nissan all the front brackets and reo for the front bar which is approx $1000.

I had a quick look and took a few measurements the other day of the Stagea radiator support, and thought I might get away from not having to change it to a R34 one. This would save approx $350 plus fitting.

The cars goes next week to get complied. Once I get it back, I will start the conversion before I get it registered. I still not have driven the car yet

I see the lack of any truely "new" stagea related topics recently.

There was once a time that I read/reply every topic, but these days, i reply in maybe 30% of them.

Bring back the glory of the suspension/brakes/SITC/transmission/attessa threads :laugh:

Yes... I am just killing time :whistling:

Um... my fog lights flash as my forward facing indicators now! How's that? and I have a set of driving lights (that come with the front bar) back in the lower bumper where the comp shop shoved the standard indicators...

Cheers

Luke

ill post a dyno video maybe as tune is booked for late next week and i just wont show the power figures for the other knobs that i dont want to see it.

Post it in here, I'll keep the thread clean :(

Now I am bored, should I go and start a new thread for no reason and then close it myself stating that we already have had 2 threads of this nature in this section............?

Nahh that would require effort.............

Now I am bored, should I go and start a new thread for no reason and then close it myself stating that we already have had 2 threads of this nature in this section............?

Nahh that would require effort.............

You could create a new user name, then you could create 250 threads asking "Who do I take my car in to for a tune?" (or similar), just like happens every week in the NSW section.

And then you could sign in as your regular log-in, and say "Why don't you do a search instead of just posting the usual questions..."

You could create a new user name, then you could create 250 threads asking "Who do I take my car in to for a tune?" (or similar), just like happens every week in the NSW section.

And then you could sign in as your regular log-in, and say "Why don't you do a search instead of just posting the usual questions..."

HAHAHAH!!! :)

Um... my fog lights flash as my forward facing indicators now! How's that? and I have a set of driving lights (that come with the front bar) back in the lower bumper where the comp shop shoved the standard indicators...

Cheers

Luke

so THATS what you ended up doing... pretty clever idea, hey.

Ill soon be starting a pictorial thread on CIY fibreglass modifications on bodykits IE duplicating the exhaust outlet to create dual outlets, as well as modifying the front bar - again. Still not happy with it. Will be adding a moulded bracket to relocate the number plate to the side, as well as adding 34GTR style rectangle inlets in the centre below teh grille.

Will be good, showing how to patch up fibreglass bumpers for when you hit a brick or curb or something.

so THATS what you ended up doing... pretty clever idea, hey.

Ill soon be starting a pictorial thread on CIY fibreglass modifications on bodykits IE duplicating the exhaust outlet to create dual outlets, as well as modifying the front bar - again. Still not happy with it. Will be adding a moulded bracket to relocate the number plate to the side, as well as adding 34GTR style rectangle inlets in the centre below teh grille.

Will be good, showing how to patch up fibreglass bumpers for when you hit a brick or curb or something.

that would be handy. Anybody know how to do a dry carbon parts?

www.topstage.com.au does fibre parts.

the difference between dry and wet CF is big in price but very similar in terms of weight. I dont think the 100% price increase of dry fibre is worth the 20% weight saving.

Saying that, dry fibre looks 10x tougher than wet fibre which has been overused lately with ricers etc :P

we need some manual console surrounds made up i reckon, i might have a go at a fibreglass one and paint it very soon just to see how it looks, i cant dare spend $750 on visual mods, its against my religion :P

$750 is half the money for a new intercooler or an ATI harmonic balancer :D

Nah If I get reeeaaaaaaallly bored I'll pick on everyone here and just give out random warning points/bans for nothing really, oh hang on a sec then I'd be banned myself, hmmmmm that doesnt sound very funny at all..............

we need some manual console surrounds made up i reckon, i might have a go at a fibreglass one and paint it very soon just to see how it looks, i cant dare spend $750 on visual mods, its against my religion :P

$750 is half the money for a new intercooler or an ATI harmonic balancer :P

That is an awesome idea, please do this please lol

Nah If I get reeeaaaaaaallly bored I'll pick on everyone here and just give out random warning points/bans for nothing really, oh hang on a sec then I'd be banned myself, hmmmmm that doesnt sound very funny at all..............

Ah! "THE STAGEA OWNERS BANNED" We could cut a Demo CD and maybe win the "Battle of the Banneds"

lollollol all the way to the bank. Which Bank?

Now that is REAL Trivia. Or Drivea ?

ab abusu ad usum non valet consequentia

"a consequence from an abuse to a use is not valid"

Inferences regarding something's use from its misuse are invalid. Rights abused are still rights (cf. abusus non tollit usum).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...