Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Detailing

stasis

By stasis,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted

Ok people easy question i think for you guys.

Now for us who just imported cars from Japan as all of us in some does it. Cos Nissan dealers dont sell Stageas in Oz. So i gues everyones car in this forum were being imported at on stage in time.

I have been hearing alot from people (not from this forum) saying that if we just imported a car from Japan it is advisable to detail our cars especially on the underbody. Due to the time spent at sea and the stuff they used to disinfect the car before leaving Japan. Somebody mentioned this in the forum cant remember who is it.

Is true that we have to detail our car once we got it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126359-car-detailing/
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted (edited)
Ok people easy question i think for you guys.

Now for us who just imported cars from Japan as all of us in some does it. Cos Nissan dealers dont sell Stageas in Oz. So i gues everyones car in this forum were being imported at on stage in time.

I have been hearing alot from people (not from this forum) saying that if we just imported a car from Japan it is advisable to detail our cars especially on the underbody. Due to the time spent at sea and the stuff they used to disinfect the car before leaving Japan. Somebody mentioned this in the forum cant remember who is it.

Is true that we have to detail our car once we got it?

ur right, Yudy. Some suppliers use very stong chemicals.

The underneath of my car has a film of fine rust on the unprotected parts. Also the parts that were cadmium plated are rusty because the chemicals ate the cad. off. I also suspect that the same stuff may have gotten into my rear bearings as they have a bit of a growl. Someone else had bearing problems, it maight have been AMS or Tangles. Not too sure but if someone out there has had these problems, please post

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126359-car-detailing/#findComment-2333544
Share on other sites
munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted

I have had no issues in that area, under my car there is no rust. I think the under car rust is more likely to be from driving on salted roads in Japan (they use salt to break up the ice). Check it and if there is an issue get it fixed, if not driving in the rain will give it a good wash underneath so I wouldn't get too carried away.

Cheers

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126359-car-detailing/#findComment-2333545
Share on other sites
Terminal Grand Master

Terminal

Posted
Posted

yeah i had wheel bearing problems. they're easy to fix, you just have to get new ones :) it cost me a bit as my mech had trouble matching them, but in the end we found the part numbers, they're in the stagea parts post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126359-car-detailing/#findComment-2338241
Share on other sites
stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yeah i had wheel bearing problems. they're easy to fix, you just have to get new ones :) it cost me a bit as my mech had trouble matching them, but in the end we found the part numbers, they're in the stagea parts post.

What brand did you get for your whee; bearings? And how much you paid for it? Other than than any other problems in the underbody such as find rusts ETC?

Wrap in a Quote

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126359-car-detailing/#findComment-2338574
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
here we go. standard nissan wheel bearing kits:

Front are $210, Rear are $259. this is because the rears have an assembly unit that comes with them.

If thats a pasir its not too bad, but if each its a lot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126359-car-detailing/#findComment-2346054
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...