Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just looking for some suggestions on this pain in the ass noise..

When i turn to the right i hear a front left hand clunk noise and can kinda 'feel' it through the steering wheel.

It ONLY happens if im driving i.e. if i have the car stationary and turn the steering wheel there is no noise.It ONLY happens if turning to the right and never to the left. It happens sometimes when I brake hard. If i drove continuously around a round about to the right it only happens once - i have to turn the steering wheel to the left and back to the right for it to 'clunk' again. Im 99.9% sure it is coming from the front LEFT hand side. Had the noise for a few months and have so far:

* replaced shock and springs - no change (they needed replacing anyway) - strut mount/bearing etc all fine.

* replaced ball joint on left side - no change

* replaced front sway bar link on left side - no change.

* reassembled intercooler piping and tightened firmly to the body - it goes through the left hand side near the tire and thought it mite be clunking against the strut or something (have made sure it doesnt touch anything) - still no change in the noise.

NOW im really stumped - Im thinking bout changing the left hand tie rod end but it looks fine and i dont wanna just waste money for the hell of it - anyone got any opinions?

one other thing - i know the power steering pump is leaking (not much) but it has been since i got the car and this problem has only developed over the past few months.

Edited by RB20_ZED
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127614-front-left-side-clunk/
Share on other sites

hay i got the same issue, going over bumps on the road there is a knocking noise sometimes it can be really bad, as you changed shocks, arms. haven't changed ball joints or anything like that

i found what the problem was so maybe this will help u out too -

dont know what all the right terminology is but the tension rod that connects the control arm to a bracket was a touch loose so i tightened that bolt.. then i noticed that there were 3 bolts connecting that bracket to the chasis rail and they were all a little loose. I tightened them all up and that seems to have solved the clunk problem... plus the steering feels much better and tighter going around corners since the control arm hasnt got as much play as before.

anyway hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...