Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Blitz Twin Solenoid Boost Controller.

-Totenkopf-
 Share

Recommended Posts

-Totenkopf- Enthusiast

-Totenkopf-

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey ladies and gents, looking to offload this boost controller as I've bought a replacement. It currently has a glitch where its not running the original boost pressure it used to, traced it to the solenoids I almost 100% sure, bleeding pressure, even when the controller is switched off. Works as is and seems to work quite well but I don't want to risk damage in case of a spike or what not as im running a pretty 'on the edge' tune.

Issue started about 2 months ago, where base boost with controller in the loop rose from 7psi to 10psi. Had marks for my 'safe tune' on the controller unit which is now useless to me as I had to wind the knob down for it to run near correct boost. From face appearance (I cant confirm, just looks exactly identical, the solenoid box itself I talk of) the twin solenoid setup is exactly the same as that used in the newer Blitz Dual SBC Spec R pictured here : http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/images/sbcspecr.jpg so you if you could just source the solenoid box, or even just the solenoids, then its quite an easy task to swap them over (I've opened up the solenoid box and applied some silicon to wherever I could see joins on the 2 solenoids to make sure there were no external leaks - didn't help, so obviously one of the solenoids is leaking internally)

Difference from the unit in the picture and the older Blitz Twin Solenoid I have for sale is that there is no digital 'boost gauge' type unit on the controller, and there is also an extra component, guess its the brains of the unit, where the controller is connected to, as well as a vacuum line and loom going off to the solenoid box that you position in the engine bay. Has adjustability for sensitivity and switch for use for both actuator and wastegate setups.

Anyway, as I said, it works as is and when setup the boost doesn't seem to be all over the place (ie, its continually holding the same boost when setup the same, not one minute 10psi, next minute 15psi etc etc) but I cant promise that that'll be the deal in the long time (solenoid could start bleeding more air). Has two adustable levels and a button to switch between the Hi and Lo settings, as well as power button to turn it off altogether (although as I said, it currently wont run 'base' boost even with the controller turned off, ie whatever the wastegate or external gate runs as standard, which I believe is ~5 or 7psi in MR2s with stock wastegate actuator.)

Anyhow, would like $150 ONO but throw me an offer. I'll take pics of the unit once I get my hands on the eboost 2 and remove this unit.

Edited by -Totenkopf-
-Totenkopf- Enthusiast

-Totenkopf-

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Bump, this may not even be faulty at all. Seem to have similar issues with the eboost as well. Admittedly its not setup correctly yet but I'll keep you in touch with the results.

Ah, appears it wasn't the boost controller playing up at all, the diaphram in my external gate has splits in it :miner:

As such, im pretty sure this is 100% working and without fault. Adjusting price to $200 ono in light of this new info.

Anyone interested? Will try get ahold of a digital camera tomorrow and take some happy snaps.

It comes with:

Controller unit.

Little 'brain' box I guess you'd call it.

Vacuum line to from above mentioned box to engine bay, with a T piece on that end.

Solenoid box.

Loom to connect 'brain' box to the solenoid box and also power and ground connections (these will probably need shortening for most cars, it was pulled from an MR2, and as such, wiring is a fair amount longer then your standard front engined car).

Anyhow, pics to come. I'll take some pics of the external gate diaphram whilst im at it to show you that im not having you on, unfortunately for me :rofl:

-Totenkopf- Enthusiast

-Totenkopf-

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Ah, appears it wasn't the boost controller playing up at all, the diaphram in my external gate has splits in it >_<

As such, im pretty sure this is 100% working and without fault. Adjusting price to $200 ono in light of this new info.

Anyone interested? Will try get ahold of a digital camera tomorrow and take some happy snaps.

It comes with:

Controller unit.

Little 'brain' box I guess you'd call it.

Vacuum line to from above mentioned box to engine bay, with a T piece on that end.

Solenoid box.

Loom to connect 'brain' box to the solenoid box and also power and ground connections (these will probably need shortening for most cars, it was pulled from an MR2, and as such, wiring is a fair amount longer then your standard front engined car).

Anyhow, pics to come. I'll take some pics of the external gate diaphram whilst im at it to show you that im not having you on, unfortunately for me :mad:

Pics postponed till tomorrow for all that requested them. Had to attend a birthday party today of a family member, as such didn't have time to get around and borrow a digi cam.

Edited by -Totenkopf-
-Totenkopf- Enthusiast

-Totenkopf-

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Pics postponed till tomorrow for all that requested them. Had to attend a birthday party today of a family member, as such didn't have time to get around and borrow a digi cam.

Some pics:

boost.jpg

boost1.jpg

boost2.jpg

boost3.jpg

Thanks.

James.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...