Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Short and simple, drivers side window doesn’t work! I have tried and searched the forum and nothing.

It all started when I put my window down one time, put them back up on auto and when it reached the top it made rattling sounds. I then removed the panel to investigate and found that it worked again. Then it stopped. Checked the little black box and that seems to be working alright but when I try to use the window, nothing all I get is the click sound from the black box.

Any help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128114-window-not-working/
Share on other sites

Before you spend money on a new window amp (the black box), open it up and look on the bottom of the circuit board.

If there are any dry solder points, theres your problem. The solder will have seperated from the circuit board and the signal will not be making it to the window.

Just drop a lil bit of solder onto it and should be sweet.

ok well the black blox circuit seems to be ok, i mean then you press the down button or up the solinoids seem to make a connection along with a clickin sound just like on the passanger side, so im guessing its my actual motor.

My box clicked every time I pressed the button, I thought it was the motor too. But the dry solder point on my circuit board was one of the outgoing prongs of the plug. So the signal was getting into the box, the switch would activate, but then the signal couldn't get out of the box again to tell the window to move.

if you're hearing a click every time you push the button and nothing happens its usually the window amp. before you go off and buy a new one, open it up and clean it. use some contact cleaner and get in there with a clean cloth and clean the surfaces.

if that doesnt work then get a new one. last i checked they were around $15 -$20 from a wrecker.

before you go and buy a motor, check if there is any power getting to it with a multimeter.

so what should I do take it to an auto electrician and get them to have a look at it?

Have you opened the box yet? Relatively easy to spot a dry solder point if you know what your looking for. 99% of the time this is the problem, or dirty contacts, as mentioned above.

when i had this prob i could get my window to go up and down IF i physically lifted the window and operated the switch. try this. take the weight of the glass off the mechinism inside and operate the window. if it works, its most likely the motor. apparently fairly common fault as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...