Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic To Manual Transmission Conversion.

george.bryant
 Share

Recommended Posts

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
Posted

I need some tips please guys.

I'm converting my PNV r30 coupe to manual as i've finally found everything I need.

How do i get the bits out of the manual r30? Do i have to get the dash out to get the pedal box out? Any suggestions on driveshaft and clutch etc?

racsov500 Grand Master

racsov500

Posted
Posted

just general not R30 specific

tailshaft is easy, 4 bolts on the diff, use 2 spanners. if its got a centre bearing unbolt that and slide it out of theback of the gearbox

drain the clutch lines via the bleed valve (or unbolt the line) on the clutch slave, unbolt it from the bellhousing

undo any earth wires, reverse swicth wires, ect going into the box. make sure you get all of them

unbolt the shifter linkage, youll probably have to take out the centre concole and the shifter boot. might also get away with not having to unbolt it.

start undoing the bellhousing bolts, using lots of extentions.

undo the gearbox Xmember bolts. this is where it gets dangerous as the box is only supported by the input shaft

everything unbolted and out of the way, slide the box back and once the shaft is free, drop it out. if its a smaller box you should be able to lift it yourself, but it sucks doing it on the ground!

umm clutch stuff unbolt the master from the firewall (careful of spilling fluid) and unbolt the linkage. then shove yourself doen under the dash and get the pedal out and stuff out

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
just general not R30 specific

tailshaft is easy, 4 bolts on the diff, use 2 spanners. if its got a centre bearing unbolt that and slide it out of theback of the gearbox

drain the clutch lines via the bleed valve (or unbolt the line) on the clutch slave, unbolt it from the bellhousing

undo any earth wires, reverse swicth wires, ect going into the box. make sure you get all of them

unbolt the shifter linkage, youll probably have to take out the centre concole and the shifter boot. might also get away with not having to unbolt it.

start undoing the bellhousing bolts, using lots of extentions.

undo the gearbox Xmember bolts. this is where it gets dangerous as the box is only supported by the input shaft

everything unbolted and out of the way, slide the box back and once the shaft is free, drop it out. if its a smaller box you should be able to lift it yourself, but it sucks doing it on the ground!

umm clutch stuff unbolt the master from the firewall (careful of spilling fluid) and unbolt the linkage. then shove yourself doen under the dash and get the pedal out and stuff out

thanks

Alfadog Collaborator

Alfadog

Posted
Posted

They're pretty damn heavy. We used two jacks and three people to be safe. It was easy enough, just keep the box stable as you lower it down. You might want to unbolt one of the front wheels so that you can get the box out easily once removed.

Sure you've got everything you need?

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
They're pretty damn heavy. We used two jacks and three people to be safe. It was easy enough, just keep the box stable as you lower it down. You might want to unbolt one of the front wheels so that you can get the box out easily once removed.

Sure you've got everything you need?

I got it out.

I got:

Gearbox

Pedal box

Clutch Cylinders

Front and rear driveshafts

This driveshaft cage

Gearbox crossmember

i jsut have to get a clutch and flywheel (sorting that out now).

DO you guys reckon it'll be possible to install the manual box with the car on axle stands?? I'll be doing it as soon as i get my clutch and flywheel.

Also, the plug that goes to the loom on the manual. I noticed my auto has the same plug. Will that be all plug & play??

Alfadog Collaborator

Alfadog

Posted
Posted

We did the whole thing with axle stands. It was a pity fiddly getting the box fitting onto the spline but realised to get the teeth fitting it was easiest to have one person moving the shaft atthe back of the box at the same time as wiggling the box in. Sorry if that's a poor explanation.....

Got spigot bush?

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
We did the whole thing with axle stands. It was a pity fiddly getting the box fitting onto the spline but realised to get the teeth fitting it was easiest to have one person moving the shaft atthe back of the box at the same time as wiggling the box in. Sorry if that's a poor explanation.....

Got spigot bush?

I get what you mean about wiggling the box on and moving ths shaft at the same time to get it to line up etc?

Spigot bush...shit...

Where does the spigot bush go??

george.bryant Rising Star

george.bryant

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I get what you mean about wiggling the box on and moving ths shaft at the same time to get it to line up etc?

Spigot bush...shit...

Where does the spigot bush go??

Sweet i know. :-) Stagefumer jogged my memory.

I'll see if i can get one when i get my clutch tomorrow.

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

What about the FLYWHEEL, I don't see that on your list George.

Cheers, D

I got it out.

I got:

Gearbox

Pedal box

Clutch Cylinders

Front and rear driveshafts

This driveshaft cage

Gearbox crossmember

i jsut have to get a clutch and flywheel (sorting that out now).

DO you guys reckon it'll be possible to install the manual box with the car on axle stands?? I'll be doing it as soon as i get my clutch and flywheel.

Also, the plug that goes to the loom on the manual. I noticed my auto has the same plug. Will that be all plug & play??

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
what - turn the bushes upside down? hehe

That's the one Harry, but different to stagefumer, by turning the bushes 180 degrees in the shift lever, it actually shortens the throw inside the gearbox, whereas just shortening the length of the lever does nothing to the shift travel.

Does exactly the same thing in our R30's that $150 plus does to S13 & R31/32 etc.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...