Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Installed my Pfc tonight and followed the intructions onthis forum.

But i think i have a problem as when i turn the power on to set the boost controller option in just continues to click and flash the engine warning light.

I am new to these units but i did a sensor check and it is flashing up the TPS, I am not even sure that R32 GTR have one of them.

Any ideas please

Regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128488-any-ideas-on-this-problem-with-pfc/
Share on other sites

Just installed my new Power fc only to find that id continually clikcks and flashs the hand controller and the exhaust temp light i think.

(Edit) the car has no cat and i think that the exhaust gas temp probe is disconnected, would this be a problem?

Any suggestion would be welcome at this point.

regards

Edited by tacker

This seems to be a common problem with the Power FC, and it is usually due to poor wiring or a blown fuse:

See Link... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...122474&st=0

You need to check:

1. Check all fuses - twice!

2. Wire in a direct 12v from the battery to the battery input on the ECU (pin 58)

3. Check earth wires (pins 60 and 50)

4. If it's still not working start checking all the other wires, for a break or something connected where it shouldn't be.

Hope that helps

Edited by Ryno

Well i have used the tried and tested method of leaving the bugger over night to heal and bugga me if it didnt just work.

I dont know what to say but it seems to just work, i have just done the idle procedure as recommended and it is now sitting at a nice 850 rpm no matter what i turn on or a little rev here and there.

Big smile and the office staff wont have to put up with me grumping around all day.

Thanks for your help Ryno and Paul.

Edited by tacker

Paul,

when i get back from the office tonight i will check for you. Its newly delivered from japan and i got a good price for it as well. Turns out its about 880 plus 30 for shipping, give or take a dollar for exchange rates.

Been buying my parts through one company in tokyo and i have to say they have been great to me.

On a side note i have just recieved my innovate wide band O2 AFR meter. I have the rb25 afm's on this GTR and i was surprise with just how close the AFR were before i changed over to the PFC. I just it was running a little lean but never once got over 14 throughout the rev range.

Cant wait to do some tuning or learn how to first, nice and slow i would guess.

Edited by tacker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...