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hey guys, i know theres another thread but it didnt seem to be the right solution. im sure ive got it this time :P

i was sitting around wondering why sometimes while in 2nd it would drop into 1st and stays there, especially on bumpy roads or while going over speed hump. i also wondered why pushing the snow button shifts it into 2nd electronically.

i figured it would be something electrical rather than mechanical, so i thought i'd try the throttle position sensor and see where that takes me, so i loosened it, played with it a bit till my idle was sitting right again (adjusting your TPS adjusts your idle), i tightened it back up, took it for a drive and its been fine ever since. for some reason shifts are alot smoother too.

i did this 2 days ago and ever since its been fine.

what are your opinions? can someone with the sticky 1st issue try this and see if it works for them too?

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the snow button cuts first gear so when you take of in the snow or slippery conditions it stops wheel spin by taking off in 2nd

yep.

but i was saying thats how i get it out of first when it used to get stuck in 1st.

15) Once the car is warmed up disconnect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) See pic below circled in red, it is on the opposite side to where the throttle wire rotates the throttle butterfly.

See where the car idles. Now depending on where it's idling depends how you turn the screw (AAC one, not the computer one), turning it clockwise lowers the idle, anti-clockwise increases idle. You want to aim for 900rpm. Once you have this by adjusting the AAC idle screw, reconnect the TPS connection with the car running, see if the revs change. If they do, you're now going to have to adjust them on the computer (see this is why we got it out).

It's the OPPOSITE on the computer to the AAC valve screw: Clockwise=increase idle, Anti-Clockwise=decrease idle.

You can move the idle in 50rpm incriments so i'm told and at total variation of 250rpm, so DO NOT OVERTURN THIS COMPUTER CONTROLLED IDLE. This is only a fine tuning mechanism.

(Note if you have an R32, the connection you have to disconnect when adjusting the idle is actually the brown electrical connector on the AAC assembly, not the TPS)

post-20406-1147857716.jpg

I didn't actually need to move my computer controlled rev, as my revs didn't change once I put the TPS electrical connector back in.

i found that, its a good guide to re-adjust it.

i got it off here...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110431

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