Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After returning from europe and picking my car up from the paint shop it has started to misfire on boost. now while i was away an auto electrician was called in, with out me knowing, to take a look at a problem with the car not starting which he ended up replacing the plugs with NGK platinums? (are they good?) which apparently fixed the starting problem....

anyways driving it home when hitting any boost over 0.4bar it would misfire.

now a theory i have is this misfiring only seems to happen when the injectors are at full duty cycle, the reason being is i have a tomei eprom which runs very rich. to my understanding its programmed to dump max fuel soon as the turbo spools up. when i got home i swapped the eprom for a toshi one i recently got thats tuned alot leaner but rich at hi boost (at my request) and the problem was gone but only when running upto 1.08 bar. when i turn the boost up over 1.1bar the problem reappears...

now its an RB20 with a hks2510 and GTR injectors 040pump so im assuming at 1bar with the leaner toshi tuned eprom the injectors are yet to reach max duty cycle but anything over that the injectors are at max duty which is where the problem occurs.

i have also been told that maybe the gap of the plugs fitted may be the cause of the misfiring but why would the problem behave differently between the 2 eproms, unless these particular plugs cant cope with all the fuel ?!?

im yet to learn generally about spark plug gaps and associated tuning problems.

maybe a semi blocked injector?

both the panel shop and auto sparky have claimed no responsability as the car ran ok whilst in their care. (moving it around the yard at idle).... MOFO's

any help appreciated guys!!

Edited by BSK

i am having that same problem with of badly missfiring with my s2 r33 when it hits boost, my problem is my coilpacks but i dont know because yours sounds like it has been modified quit a bit and mines just stock, so i could be wrong, but anyways just my input, :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...