Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ummm... I think he said 5w50.

Which is what I use, over filled (to the bottom of the bump on the stick) ofcourse.

I think 10w30 would break down too early in an RB turbo engine (engine gets too hot for that oil).

Sorry yes 5W50. Same thing really. Still nice and thick.

The M1 10W30 won't break down in an RB. Its fully synthetic PAO based oil so it can handle the stress without breaking a sweat. Hell Nissan's OEM oil is 7.5W30 mineral stuff so if that can do the job...

Your average RB doesnt run any hotter than any other engine, why would you say that? The turbo is water cooled anyway so the turbo isn't as hard on the oil as the days of old.

Guest 40th-edition

i run 10w30 because i get it from work.. does the job and have no probs with it at all..

the numbers given to the weights of the oils r over rated ne ways... 50 is a large cold weight and 0 is just bull shit.. just oil componeys claming crap ( i know they go through sia testing)

i run 10w30 because i get it from work.. does the job and have no probs with it at all..

the numbers given to the weights of the oils r over rated ne ways... 50 is a large cold weight and 0 is just bull shit.. just oil componeys claming crap ( i know they go through sia testing)

50 is not the cold weight. It is the measure of the high temperature viscosity.

As for the numbers being crap, it is easy to compare the difference between two grades. Just tip some out of the bottle - it will suprise you how different they are.

Essentially, to compare the 5W50 to the 10W30 they are basically the same oil, just with different viscosity modfiers. The 5W50 will be "thinner' when cold & "thicker" when hot. This is a relative thing as obviously the oil's viscosity will decrease as it gets hotter.

At the end of the day you will be marginally better off with the 5W50 because it is more stable, most noticeably when hot.

is it 5W50, or 5W30? cause 5W50 sounds like a pretty thick oil to me.

its definitley 5w-50.... but u can buy 10w-30 aswell....

when is oil at its thickest? i never drive my car for longer than 50 mins at a time, i dont go on long trips.... so what would be better for me?

im only ever doing little trips to work and stuff... never big road trips..

Beef

whether you drive for 20 mins or 5 hours, once the car car has come up to operating temp the oil temp shouldn't rise (unless you are flogging it). normal oil gets thinner as it got hot, but multigrade oils are designed so they don't thin as much.

Edited by mad082

just doing a bit of research, normally oil thins at higher temp. multi-grade oils have polymers that stop it hinning too much (so its thin when cold, and not too thin when hot). the dissadvantage with high range oils (big gap between 1st and 2nd numbers) is that they are more prone to breaking down. it is the oil that lubricates, not the additives, so the less additives, the better.

Hi Guys,

There was mention above of filling oil past the MAX to the BUMP. I was told by one mechanic that this reduces the change of oil surge and is ok but by another mechnic that filling past MAX on the dipstick can cause potential damage. Can I get some sort of common consensus on whether this is ok?

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
×
×
  • Create New...