Jump to content
SAU Community

I Dare You To Overheat Now!

bren

By bren,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
He said ARE not ARC...

BTW, Richard of ARE at Brendale is a good customer of mine and his products are simply the best aviable on the market here in Australia.

cool, but look at the price difference .. especially since he is in the UK .. ARC is same price shipped ans the ARE is unshipped...

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you find your air temps are adversly affected or still aren't getting the result you want, have a look at this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-COOLER-...639755922QQrdZ1

I got one of these from Ebay in the US for $75 AUD from an auction. Paid $145 AUD all up delivered by air mail to australia. Relocated your battery to the boot and this will fit nicely in its place. Keep trawling thru ebay you find all kinds of bargins. It will require a little fabrication work but considering your car I doubt you'll be afraid of that. These oil coolers retail for something like $900 USD and are purpose built for Nascar, mine was made by C & R radiators.

You can'd beat a water cooled oil system for consistant and controllable oil temps. Nascar do it for a reason.

Edited by GTST4Newbie
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Na they flow really well, as the internal oil cooler is a plate style.

Check out this link... gives you an idea of the internal design.

http://www.crracing.com/custom_built/external_heat.shtml

Because it uses water as well the surface area for heat exchange can be greatly reduced while still achieving the same thermal efficency as a large air-oil cooler. Simular principal to anything you might have read on water-air intercooling.

bren Contributor

bren

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Na they flow really well, as the internal oil cooler is a plate style.

Check out this link... gives you an idea of the internal design.

http://www.crracing.com/custom_built/external_heat.shtml

Because it uses water as well the surface area for heat exchange can be greatly reduced while still achieving the same thermal efficency as a large air-oil cooler. Simular principal to anything you might have read on water-air intercooling.

Do they need to be sat in airflow or could we mount it behind the headlight? They look a novel (to me) way to deal with oil temp problems. Very interesting :D

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

You can mount it in your boot if you don't mind running the plumbing to it.

So long as your main radiator gets sufficent enough air flow, your oil temps will be maintained around the 80-90 degree mark with the rest of your engine, which is where they should be.

Most oils begin to loose viscosity around 85-90 degrees, and are really down hill by 130 degrees. The additives in them burn etc and become abrasive, which is really bad....

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

I purchased mine for my VW, not for my skyline. As the VW is oil/air cooled, maintaining a constant oil temp is pretty important, but also hard to do when your engine is bored and stroked 800cc oversize and turbo charged. Water cooling makes engine temperatures a lot easier to manage.

I've mounted the oil cooler inside the car behind the passenger front seat on the floor (under the back seat, and out of sight). Water is electrically pumped through twin front mounted radiators. The electric pumps are controlled by the cars engine management.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...