Jump to content
SAU Community

Pre Purchase Car Checks

thrtytwo

By thrtytwo,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
Posted

I know that most anybody who has bought a second hand car would of had it checked by the RAC but from experiences a few of my friends have had i am left wondering exactlyh what they do and dont check.

Just wondering who in WA is good to get cars checked and what they will check. Will they do compression tests and start the car up to check for radiator leaks ? things like that which it seems the RAC dont do is what im worried about seeing as im NOT a mechanic :D

any info would be great :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130786-pre-purchase-car-checks/
Share on other sites
1vea74 Enthusiast

1vea74

Posted
Posted

NOR - Hyperdrive

SOR - C-red

RAC usually check for basic road worthiness. If seeking a bit more detailed inspection, go for the ones mentioned. Compression test are usually extra and that depends on the car. For example, 180SX/S13-15 are pretty easy but RB series takes some time, especially the R34.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • GTSBoy
      Rear Sway Bar Busshings - Holden Astra TS (2002)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...