Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

New to skylines (been driving a 300ZX Z31 for the last couple of years). I'm about to purchase a 96 R33 skyline GTS-T M Spec.

I went to have a look at it today, chassis was in perfect condition, however 2 things we picked up on.

First - turbo didn't seem to pull as much as other R33's we had driven, there was however a lot of induction noise (what we think was induction). The car only had a pod filter on, loosely fitted. So we suspect it was that. I put a deposit down then decided to go for another drive, as I pulled out of the car lot, the car died and wouldn't rev. Letting the car idle, it was surging up and down and running rough. The car dealer said it was nothing to worry about - was probably the mass air flow sensor needing resetting (how do u reset that lol?) or a coil pack and would be fixed by the time I pick the vehicle up.

Is this something I should be worrying about or something I need to look further into? Could this be related to why the turbo wasn't pulling? I know a fair bit about cars, and nissans in particular but turbo's are new to me!

So help me out guys! help ease me into the skyline world!

The only other problem was the suspension (way to hard - bouncing all of the place) but easy to fix that one I think.

Car has VERY low k's and price is right.

Cheers ppl,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130945-new-to-skylines-quick-question/
Share on other sites

yeah I had my mate with me who owns a skyline but he wasnt sure either, my mechanic couldn't make it out with me but we will go and have a deeper look next weekend, i thought i'd jsut see if it was something common that people knew about or something - put my mind at rest as the rest of the car is gorgeous lol

yeah I had my mate with me who owns a skyline but he wasnt sure either, my mechanic couldn't make it out with me but we will go and have a deeper look next weekend, i thought i'd jsut see if it was something common that people knew about or something - put my mind at rest as the rest of the car is gorgeous lol

Surging caused by an air leak after the AFM (Air Flow Meter), so if the pod is loose it wont have any effect. But if anything is loose after the AFM, problems will start. With pod filter it is normal to get heaps of induction noise.....

Air leak could be highly likely for lack of power as all that boost that is being created is leaking out, not to mention the car will be out of tune as the AFM tells it how much air is entering the system, ECU with leak getting incorrect reading and will be running it too rich. The car's ECU must have gone to limp home mode for it not to rev!!!!

Best of luck with your potential skyline, if you were down on the gold coast i would happily go check it out for you.. :laugh:

Edited by 12DFY

off the topic, if a 96 model car has a very LOW mileage, u should know what is going on. dont u think its a bit sus that a lot of the imports are around 60000kms mark????mileages doesnt mean anything.

as for the turbo, if the car is runnin a pod in the engine bay, it will directly suck in all the hot air and hence the inlet temp will be quite high. thats why it doesnt pull as hard. this is the best case scenario.

Edited by frankxinyu
I would not use RACQ to check it over...

Id use a skyline buff...

Take the car to one of the workshops in the topic below...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130753

that was only a general suggestion.oh and by the way some racq mechanics have worked on skylines.if you arent sure of the car get it looked at, that was the point.

Hey will be more than happy to check over it, you can tell if the km's are genuine by looking at some telltale signs, suspension bushes etc etc.

I am a fitter and turner, marine fitter/engineer and an armourer who has done nothing but play with my two skylines for the past few years. Not a mechanic on paper as of yet but am thinking of bridging the gap to get that ticket as well.

Will be more than happy to check it out for you mate, if they give us enough time I can compression test and all that crud as well. I recently rebuilt my motor, gearbox, diff etc so I know my way around the 33 quite well.

Hate to see people get ripped so am more than happy to share the knowledge!!

Edited by 12DFY
Oh and by the way some racq mechanics have worked on skylines.

Maby so, they also work on shop riders. But its a bit like going to Clive Peters and asking advice about PC's and technoligy then asking the same person about toasters & kettles...

Use a specialist in that industry or on that topic...

Id go straight to those who know exactally what their looking at... Give me a RB with an issue and ill find a solution...

BTW> RACQ are more about road worth's and safty cert's rather than mechanical advice...

I would not use RACQ to check it over...

Id use a skyline buff...

Take the car to one of the workshops in the topic below...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130753

racq are f**kwits

use these guys ..they actually no what there doing https:state roads

150 point check for $179 ..even measure paint thickness for previous repairs or crash damage

racq are ignorant fools...ie: HICAS NOT WORKING .. Q.How do you know that... A. turned the steering wheel and the rear wheels didn`t move

get you camry or vn holden checked by racq ..otherwise get people that know what there doing ..not clowns sponsered by ford ,holden etc

mate of mine had his car checked out by racq and they did an awesome job

found heaps of problems for teh dealer to fix

i got mine checked out by chapman and chapman, they were good too

yeah we did a full check over - bushes and everything seem to be good, no unusual signs of wear - heater hoses and fire wall fibre was all in tact and looked brand new. No signs of welding or anything on the seams welds around the car either. THe thing i don't know is RB series engines, 12DFY, how can I get in contact with you? would really appreciate someone elses knowledge before I take the plunge.

cheers

mate of mine had his car checked out by racq and they did an awesome job

found heaps of problems for teh dealer to fix

i got mine checked out by chapman and chapman, they were good too

Yeah I plan on getting a tune done by chapman and chapman, my good mate and mechanic used to work there, but getting a chance with him to go from brisbane to the goldcoast is hard lol

Yes I can agree with jake32. I have now had two cars inspected by State Roads (Vic & Qld) and I can definitly recommend these guys. Very comprehensive test, I actually relied on this test to purchase my R34 as I could not view the car myself. Thanks jake32!! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
×
×
  • Create New...