Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got a set of tein height adjustables on my r33 and was havin trouble cracking the 2 locknuts apart as i wana lower it. i managed to get the bottom one off as i drowned the thread with INOX spray, so that was freed up, i managed to get that loose with a stilson and pipe.

the second 1 (one that the coil sits on) wouldnt move. i sprayed it heaps, even spring clamped the coil to take pressure off it, and still couldnt free it.

NOTE: i didnt take the ket so i used a long screwdriver and hammer.

can any1 give me advice to tricks to loosen it?? i cant get the stilson on it coz there aint enuf room to grip on the ring..

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131164-tein-height-adjustables/
Share on other sites

do not take anything hotter than a hair dryer to your shocks, an i cant see that really doing much good. as seen on most shock absorbers is a warning "DO NOT HEAT"....

some how get more leverage on your C spanners, slide a pipe or something over it? hammer an screwdriver may help jar it, but be careful not to damage the ring. only other suggestion is use something like RP7/CRC/WD40 etc.. leave it for 5mins an come back an give it another go.

if all else fails you will have to take the strut out disasemble it and split the nut off the thread, check the dia of the thread before you do !!! it shoold be a generic metric thread size and you should be able to buy a new one from any half decent bearing store

when you go to give the nut a tap with a hammer try and use some thing like a copper hammer it should not damage the nut but still give a decent hit . if you do end up needing a nut you need to know thread dia and thread pitch ,eg ,1,1.25,1.5, 1.75 you will need to get hold of a thread pitch gauge to measure the thread, when you do get it all free and moving use a good anti seize to stop it from happening again , any way best of luck.

where can u get a C spanner from?? i didnt egt it with mine as i bought the car second hand and wasnt given it

also try the plumbing section of the hardware store, seriously there like a third of the price.

putting the shock in a bench-vise helps also.. just remember not to clamp on the casing, damaging this will f**k your shock up, clamp at the bottom like where the bolt goes through and attaches it to the lower control arm... but once you got it in the vise you can go to town on it... with your c-spanners and such...

Just a passing thought. The newer Tein C Spanners have the option to put a big socket breaker bar on them to get more levereage. They are expensive though. Maybe $80 a pair. See if any one local has some yhou can borrow.

Regards

Brad

Just a passing thought. The newer Tein C Spanners have the option to put a big socket breaker bar on them to get more levereage. They are expensive though. Maybe $80 a pair. See if any one local has some yhou can borrow.

Regards

Brad

or once again go to the hardware store and buy a pipe of some-kind to fit over the end of the spanner handle (which ever you decide to get) and wah-lah more leverage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...