Jump to content
SAU Community

Why Does My Car Boost Spike Running Standard Boost?

brizzi

By brizzi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

brizzi Collaborator

brizzi

Posted
Posted

Hi just wondering if anyone knows? Why does this stupid neo rb25 which i am begining to hate, boost spike to 12psi on full throttle,then it climbs to 15 psi then starts shaking the whole car (only night time late,and early mornings) i know the air is colder and more dense. And during the arvo it holds 8psi constant under full throttle. Everything is stock! hoses,boost valve everything...... :O

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

something is leaking or not correct for it to spike that much

the stock actuator wont allow it to hold that much pressure

i would suggest checking all the hoses and tubes

what exhaust?

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted (edited)

That would be why.. its flowing more in the dense times...

I would suggest a upgraded actuator and then a decent boost controller to fix the issue.. try one of those cheap ones they are going on about here.. the turbo tech. you would be suprised.

3 inch exhaust, split dump pipe, and a ultra ultra high flow cat :O
Edited by Guilt-Toy
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

well thats why its spking

youve taken away the exhaust restriction so now its easier for the engine to flow exhaust, which in turn drives the turbine faster, which makes more boost and makes it spike. i would suggest a good electronic boost controller. one that can only close based on whatever preset pressure is.

brizzi Collaborator

brizzi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanx fellas! I have been tearing my hair out! I would much rather my old series one rb25! use to run 12 pound all day every day not a drama! Neo rb25 very overated! for example 9-10 psi boost cut, turbo is a crappy laggy nylon one!

nuffsaid Veteran

nuffsaid

Posted
Posted
well thats why its spking

youve taken away the exhaust restriction so now its easier for the engine to flow exhaust, which in turn drives the turbine faster, which makes more boost and makes it spike. i would suggest a good electronic boost controller. one that can only close based on whatever preset pressure is.

What are some EBCs you recommend (one with an accurate boost in psi reading would be good)

Blitz SBD-ID3?

Profec B?

AVCR?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...