Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh hi since ive turbo'd my engine rb25de i put a drift oil breather on as shown in the picture!

the as u can see the blue'ish filter there use to be a hose leading the the stock airfilter piping...

since i turbo'd my engine i had nothing to put there other then this filter.

when i give my car a bit it seems pressure is building up and forcing oil out of the filter and yeh needs to be fixed asap. can anyone tell me what i can do to fix this problem?

Thanks heaps people!

post-28365-1156405139.jpg

Edited by Stealthynsa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131580-oil-problem-since-turbod/
Share on other sites

oil coming out of that line will happen no matter what you do.

only thing you can do to stop it from going around your engine bay is to stick fit an oil catch can.

do it ASAP. the oil around your exhaust manifold coult start a fire!

oil coming out of that line will happen no matter what you do.

only thing you can do to stop it from going around your engine bay is to stick fit an oil catch can.

do it ASAP. the oil around your exhaust manifold coult start a fire!

its not coming from the turbo oil line... its coming from the top of the engine where the filter is...

and oil catch can? what would this do to help me, i tried pluging it up once but then the pressure built up

and spat out of my dip stick...

i didnt say anything about a turbo line.

the place where you fit the breather is meant for a pipe heading back into the intake.

air comes out of there and sometimes oil will come through your rings. this is called blow by.

do a search on catch can and you'll find something.

i didnt say anything about a turbo line.

the place where you fit the breather is meant for a pipe heading back into the intake.

air comes out of there and sometimes oil will come through your rings. this is called blow by.

do a search on catch can and you'll find something.

so if i put this catch can on there wont it also over flow?

or does it drain back into the engine? what happens if this builds up with pressure?

btw thanks for ur help dude

yeah it will fill up eventually, but at least it wont spill onto your motor.

im more worried about your dip stick blowing out. have you gotten a compression test done? this is usually a sign of worn or even damaged pistons/rings. get it checked out asap.

the catch can doesnt fill up with pressure, the air vents back out to either your intake or atmo.

yeah it will fill up eventually, but at least it wont spill onto your motor.

im more worried about your dip stick blowing out. have you gotten a compression test done? this is usually a sign of worn or even damaged pistons/rings. get it checked out asap.

the catch can doesnt fill up with pressure, the air vents back out to either your intake or atmo.

how much is a compression test/ where would i go... and what do they do to test it, am i able to test it myself?

whats a atmo?

there is a fair bit of oil that comes out... it never happened untill turbo'd it.

and also when i give it a bit of a rev burnt smoke comes out of the filter would that be normal im guessing its burnt oil?

The oil wont overflow, the blow by will then be caught inside the catchcan instead of spraying all over the place inside your engine bay, As security said its actually meant for a pipe to go back into the intake

The oil wont overflow, the blow by will then be caught inside the catchcan instead of spraying all over the place inside your engine bay, As security said its actually meant for a pipe to go back into the intake

so by u saying a pipe goin back to my intake... u mean the 2.5" piping to the throttle body?

you could do it yourself, but it'll be hard to crank your motor while reading compression, just drop it off at a mechanic and ask for a compression test and a leak-down test. it shouldnt cost too much, probably the same amount as buying a compression tester.

atmo = atmosphere.

you could do it yourself, but it'll be hard to crank your motor while reading compression, just drop it off at a mechanic and ask for a compression test and a leak-down test. it shouldnt cost too much, probably the same amount as buying a compression tester.

atmo = atmosphere.

where is the atmo?

thats your inlet pipe.

intake is your air filter pipe. so it needs to lead to your turbo.

a catch can will seperate the oil from the air before it hits your engine though. thats its purpose.

ok now u have lost me sorry about this...

um i put 1 of the tubes of the catch can onto the part where its leaking ontop of the engine.

and ur saying i put the other tubing into the atmo or the intake? if i put it into the intake wont it go back throung somewhere its not suppose to?

ok now u have lost me sorry about this...

um i put 1 of the tubes of the catch can onto the part where its leaking ontop of the engine.

and ur saying i put the other tubing into the atmo or the intake? if i put it into the intake wont it go back throung somewhere its not suppose to?

read:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...%20can&st=0

this is a goodie:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20can&st=20

on the side of ur engine u have a oil return line from a step down at the fron of the rocket cover down the the bottom of i the engine... i T peice my turbo's oil return line in there... would this be why ther oil is coming up and spurting out? im saying would the oil+pressure from the turbo's oil return go back up through the oil return from the head and therefore come out my airfilter?

if you've T'd it into a pipe you KNOW to be an oil return pipe it shouldnt be a problem.

i know its an oil return from the head but what im saying since there is pressure coming from the turbo oil return would it head back up the oil return from the head causing the head to overflow and rid the oil out of my air filter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...