Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got 10 sets of clear front indicators coming in.

s1%20indies.jpg

s1%20indies2.jpg

These are to suit the Stagea WNC34 (S1) only.

IMG_0891_1.JPG

These are very hard to find and they normally retail from $100-$130.

Special Price - $70 delivered.

Finish date - 14/09/06

Payment due - 18/09/06

Buyers:

1/ Talej - paid - sent.

2/ Ska- paid - sent.

3/ wagonwheels - paid - sent.

4/ Burns - paid - sent.

5/ FLYSLY - paid - sent.

6/ StageaGirl - paid - sent.

7/ wagon - paid - sent.

8/ RSFour - paid - sent.

9/ private buyer - paid - sent.

10/ humble

11/ CruiseLiner

12/ STAGE-A

13/ qikstagea

14/ jake32

15/

16/

17/

18/

19/

20/

:)

  • 2 weeks later...

I'd love to, but just dont have $70 spare..... had to push it to get the clear sides, which were $50! :P But still, brand new from nissan these are worth $120 EACH!!! Not a pair of them!! This is a BARGAIN!

Got my package today... thanks! Slight problem that I'm not quite sure what I should do though... my car has square plugs and the clear indicators have round holes????? :(

Are the plugs on my car not standard for some reason? Where can I get some round ones from?

Talej - You should be able to swap the plug, wiring and light bulb socket from your standard ones to the clear ones.

FLYSLY - thanks :woot:

yep - I managed to get it all sorted out. swapped the plugs and bulbs and I had to do a little bit of filing on the clips because they were too wide for some reason. All in and looking great now.

Thanks :D

yep - I managed to get it all sorted out. swapped the plugs and bulbs and I had to do a little bit of filing on the clips because they were too wide for some reason. All in and looking great now.

Thanks :D

Excellent :woot:

Dude you are a dead set LEGEND!

Got mine today, had to cut a tiny bit out of my front bar as the two prongs didnt quite fit, the top one on the standard part is only half as wide, a two second tiny cut with a stanley knife and BAM, swapped the plugs and bulbs and put in.

Done, THANK YOU!!

Dude you are a dead set LEGEND!

Got mine today, had to cut a tiny bit out of my front bar as the two prongs didnt quite fit, the top one on the standard part is only half as wide, a two second tiny cut with a stanley knife and BAM, swapped the plugs and bulbs and put in.

Done, THANK YOU!!

Excellent :(



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...