Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got some drift pineapples today off a guy on NS and was kinda anoyed when i realised he had made them himself and they hadnt been manufactured like he said. but he did suply instructions on fitment. but i soon got over that and realised that i could also make them.

i have a friend of a friend who can get me some nolaphane (if thats how its spelt) so i can make them up faily cheap if anyone wants. now dont be deturbed by me saying drift as these can be set up for three different ways to optimise hadeling. squat, drift and alround proformance.

its just an idea so let me know if your keen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132067-drift-pineapples/
Share on other sites

well i fitted my pine apples to day and i did notice quite a difference.

i put them in and took it for a quick run up the road. i decided to do a bit of a skid as thats what i put them in for and i found the back end to be quite a bit stiffer. i was able to fish tail down the road with ease as in the past the car would go out sideways and then snap back into line. i also only have lowered springs over the standard shocks (which are stuffed) so it was easy to notice the difference. if you had a stiff backend already than you may not notice them as much.

well worth the money i recon

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

ok ill explain as best i can. there are four points that you put these pineapples in. there is 4 mounting bolts for the rear subframe. 2 towards the front and to at the back. for drift put the smaller diameter ones towards the front between the subframe and the nut and cuped washer that holds it all in. then put the bigger ones at the back between the subframe and the body.

try that any more questions just ask

I set mine up differently as per the whiteline instructions to induce rear squat for maximum traction but it is easy to swap between the different setups.

I am happy with how mine is but did a lot of other things at the same time.

sweet as, sounds simple to do

Just was unsure, cause of te larger diameter bushes have slits in them

and the small ones dont, so if the bushes stay where therre suppose to be i should be sweet.

They way you stated i should be able to get away without dropping the subframe .

Hey,

I tried fitting the bushes in my car tonight, and

do i remove the standard bushes out?

cause reading other ppls post, and them saying they have done it in 45 mins, doesn't sound like they removed them.

Juist if i saw some pics of it done, it would give me a bit more confidence about it.

thanks

Geeez I am good to you!! :D

Here is mine setup for maximum traction. I did not remove any other bushes. If yours looks different than this I would say there is already something after market. There was some rubber points on there but very minimal...

drift1jd2.jpg

drift2yy3.jpg

drift3sg8.jpg

drift4pn4.jpg

Hope that help dude!!

Todd

Edited by CATKICKER
nice i will purchase these then

in my mind, for the price you can't go too wrong.

I am not sure how much difference you will find with stock suspension (not that I know if you do or not) but I have only heard and experenced good things with them.

Think of it as adjusting the pisition of the diff via the subframe, one way increases squat, the onther decreases.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...