Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. My name is victim7. I own a 1995 Series 1.5 R33 GTS-T 5 sp manual. I bought it back in December 2005 in Sydney and then had it shipped over to me in Perth. I then drove it home. (I live in Albany, 400km sth of Perth). It has a 3" exhaust from the turbo back, High flow (racing) cat, twin plate HD clutch, HKS blow off valve, Apexi turbo timer, and it's chipped (or so I've been told, I dont really know for sure but I've hit top speed of 240 Kmh and apparently from the factory they have a 180 Kmh speed limitation). Anyone know how I can tell if its been chipped other than that? I've also fitted a pod filter since I got it. Stock engine and turbo. 1st thing will be a Trust front mounted intercooler and a boost controller. Any advice on this would be much appreciated. Anyway, thats me. Once again, Hi to everyone out there in Skylines Australia.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/
Share on other sites

you can tell if its been chipped if you take the cover off the ECU... if its been chipped, the standard solder-in ROM chip will have been removed, and a socket soldered in, in its place, with the new chip inside that...

or if its a MINES ecu or something like that they usually have the sticker on the outside of it.

but if you've hit 240, there's 2 things i can deduce from that... a) you're an idiot and b) the standard 180kph speed limiter has been removed, which is either done by running a speed cut defender or a modified/aftermarket ECU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/#findComment-2447532
Share on other sites

A little harsh don't you think?? :D For all we know he may have achieved this speed on a track somewhere!!

but if you've hit 240, there's 2 things i can deduce from that... a) you're an idiot and b) the standard 180kph speed limiter has been removed, which is either done by running a speed cut defender or a modified/aftermarket ECU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/#findComment-2447681
Share on other sites

the car has an exhaust and a pod... which means it is going to be not much quicker than standard (i.e. wet wig)... there is not a track in Australia short of Bathurst (conrod straight) that i can think of that a near-standard R33 would be able to wind out to anywhere near 240kph

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/#findComment-2447763
Share on other sites

the car has an exhaust and a pod... which means it is going to be not much quicker than standard (i.e. wet wig)... there is not a track in Australia short of Bathurst (conrod straight) that i can think of that a near-standard R33 would be able to wind out to anywhere near 240kph

you know...there are actually places in this country where there are no speed limits...and I'm sure WA may just fall into this category...(frowning)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/#findComment-2447772
Share on other sites

eh yeh fair harsh, theres quite a few long roads in AUS that are unlimited speed, people always jumping to conclusions.. Mentioning anything over 100 KPH, mentioning drifting, burnouts or standstills and youll get flamed instantly, its quite sad really. Seems people think theres no places in australia you can enter into these activities legally :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/#findComment-2448098
Share on other sites

Put it this way - why does the Aussie Joe-Public simply LOVE their hi-po motorbikes??

I'll tell ya - speed, speed, and more speed... thats straightline speed and cornering speed. Thats how bikes are judged here, how quick they are in all-round conditions. Im finaly using my smarts, and walking away from riding tho.

To see if its chipped, open up the kick panel on the pasenger side (under golvebox), check over the front and rear of the ECU for stickes, stamps, tampering etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132185-hi-all-chipped/#findComment-2448156
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...