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Hi all,

got the rb30det all wired up to a power fc

have got spark, have got injectors, when i turn the key maybe 1/5 attempts i will get a 1/2second kick and that is all...

i dont have the knock sensors connected as i dont have any - will this affect the timing so it wouldnt start?

also, will turning the cas while cranking possible give it the right spark/injector combination for timing?

thanks

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Sensors wont matter no, and moving the cas shouldnt really effect it.

Just set the cas up with the 3 screws in the middle and leave it.

Sounds to me like its a fuel related issue still, take the return pipe off and with the ign on check to make sure it primes out of the rail ok. Also what car is this in, an r33 I take it?

Also take one injector and coil pack plug off and test to make sure they both have a constant 12V with ign on.

Edited by James_03

ok, i definately have spark

fuel primes out of the return on ign

i put the positive of my multimeter on an injector plug and the negative on the body of the car and while cranking i didnt see any change in voltage - it wasnt anywhere near 12v

any suggestions? do i need a resistor pack for the injectors on a series 1 rb25det?

thanks

Edited by warpz0r

Platnium has got his running in a VL with a PFC.

There is a constant 12v feed from some where to the injectors.

The ECu then triggers the injector by grounding them. Essentially its reversed as to how you are thinking.

Pull a sparky out after a crank, you will know if its then getting fuel or not.

AFM is wired in correctly? Check the PFC H/c's etc .. sensor sw menu to check all sensors are showing correctly.

i dont have the afm hooked up...

i dont have a HC...

2 plugs had fuel in em... it will give a 1/2second cough after about 30 mins of priming and cranking

well atleast i know spark is working

it doesnt really matter about injectors as im going for a LPG straight conversion so they will be disconnected and have some plugs in the holes...

Edited by warpz0r
i put the positive of my multimeter on an injector plug and the negative on the body of the car and while cranking i didnt see any change in voltage - it wasnt anywhere near 12v

That is your problem there. The motor will still start without the AFM albeit very rough, you need to keep the throttle open on about half too. There will be a plug with spade terminals near the AFM plug on that same branch of loom, you need to give the injectors a 12V live on one of the terminals as there is a seperate loom in the skylines that takes care of the 12V live for the injectors, its not done thru the ecu loom at all, the ecu only pulses ground signals to the injectors.

On my r31 I hooked it up to the eccs relay which works fine. It will be a red wire on this plug. If you need more info just ask I can mebe take some pics or whatever.

Dont hook a direct 12V line up to the injectors, it must be done thru a relay or you will damage them, you should also install a 10 amp inline fuse for them.

Did you also check the 12V on the coil packs? They are supplied 12V thru the eccs relay, which you also need to give a 12V live from the orginal VL loom above where the rb30e ECU was located near the kick panel.

Edited by James_03

i will ge tthe afm sorted in the next couple of days.

i have the fuel lines going in the right way

wiring - i have a +12v going to the rb25det eccs loom and also another +12v coming from IGN, so i was under the impression the eccs loom controlled the injectors and coil packs? maybe im wrong... but thats the only wiring i did for my rb20det into a VL a while back...

thanks all for the input

Sorry deleted my reply as I was giving a advice re non kicking over and upon re reading your title thread it appears that it is kicking over.

MY BAD.

Cheers

Imtorqing

Edited by Imtorqing

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