Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The PowerFC has a knock sensor or rating when you hook up a hand controller.

Now apparently a 'rating' under 60 is good.

You can expect new cars to have a rating of 10-20.

A car that has done 100,000km might have 30-40.

But danger time (rebuild/retune) is when it hits 50/60.

Can anyone shed light on this?

I was told this applies to N/A and turbo cars (Or anything an FC can hook to).

I'll give you my rating later :D

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13316-powerfcs-knock-rating/
Share on other sites

But danger time (rebuild/retune) is when it hits 50/60.

nopers...no way...nuh.... Hardly danger time unless it does it under anything other than full load. 60 isn't anything to worry about as long as you dont hit it all day every day.

80-90 plus is a problem if it's ALL the time.

Adrian

Originally posted by 2rismo

nopers...no way...nuh....  Hardly danger time unless it does it under anything other than full load.  60 isn't anything to worry about as long as you dont hit it all day every day.

80-90 plus is a problem if it's ALL the time.

Adrian

umm, how's 100+? :D i used to get that on a daily basis. :P

j/k

although i did get a reading of 110-120 one time. really had the pedal welded though;)

i used to get that on a daily basis.

bastard tells me this after i buy the car from him!!!

lol... 11-12 is great. 100+ a few times on super hot days or with the boost right the way up. doesn't hurt. I also get VASTLY better (read: lower) knock levels when using Evolution 98 fuel. That stuff smacks the ar$e off of optimax, synergy, bp etc...

Adrian

There is nothing magical about the 60 level of the knock sensor except that the PFC flashes the engine warning light if this limit is reached.

From experience I found that at levels of over around 60 detonation was audible via stethoscope (when on the dyno) and over around 100 the detonation was audible from within the cabin (obviously very bad). Personally I liked to keep the knock sensor levels below 30.

On hot days the knock would often increase at certain load/rpm points. I would then isolate those points and advance the ignition (ie move closer to TDC) and/or richen the fuel map around those points.

Takes a bit of trial end error and best done with someone else driving! Also helps to have a predrawn 20x20 grid on a clipboard.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...