Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

down at my uncles workshop is a 650hp rx7 with a 20b rotary in it and a rather large turbo you know.. all the fruit but its been in an accident like the engine is fine but the front of the chassis is screwed. now im wondering if its worth spending the 8 grand on it mainly due the engine being seriously worked on and just finding a half cut, my uncle reckons dont touch it because you dont know whats been done to it but still... 8 grand for 650hp oh and its got drifting suspension the one where you can adjust the camber or something

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133233-rx-7-reliability/
Share on other sites

Did they put ceramic apex seals in it?

IIRC the apex seals are the first go, if they skimped whilst rebuilding it I wouldn't expect stockers to last that long at that kind of power. They also chew petrol like theres no tomorrow.

I'd be asking for dyno proof of said 650hp if I was considering it.

That said if you stick the motor in the smallest car you can and your bound for a heap of fun :yes:

So what model are we talking about here? FB,D,C?

Its a case of the classic risk return trade off here. One one hand you might do ok and have and insane car for damn good money. On the other hand you might end up getting it in a new front cut then it exploding on you (not uncommon with high HP engines) the the car falling apart around you and haveing to shell out a constant stream of meony for a car that is never on the road. If you have a daily driver and a but of spare cash flow id say you could sorta go for it if you have a little bit of a daring side. If not probably not a good idea.

well i rang the guy up an found out its just a 13b rotary which was depressing says he got 650hp on 30psi with race fuel. what a let down *sigh* so im going to pass but if anyones interested just pm me. apparently he goes on alot of anti lag cruises

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
    • What Duncan said sounds right. Also, it looks like they only have the driver's mat. Not the rest. Because looking at the diagram: KG4911 is just the mat for the driver. KG4900 is the full set if I'm not mistaken and discontinued.   But, it looks like they may still have the full set for the manual S2. Might be worth checking for the other models as well as they seem slightly different. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/misc/G49 Man, I'm tempted.
    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
×
×
  • Create New...