Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im running some speedline fittings for fuel and was wondering how to connect some 400 series to the steel fuel line. Its a BNR32 and I’m looking down towards the engine bay fuel filter location at the high pressure and return lines, wondering how ppl do it. Do people remove that section of line from underneath the car and weld / braze a threaded fitting on to take a SF barb fitting?

Any thoughts would be appreciated

Michael

post-14713-1157784435.jpg

get a special speedflow fitting that u slide over the metal line and then u gotta flare the metal line and then the special fitting will seal hard against the flare and has threads on it to screw into the other speedflow fitting.

il try and get a pic for u later on if i can, its hard to explain in words

get a special speedflow fitting that u slide over the metal line and then u gotta flare the metal line and then the special fitting will seal hard against the flare and has threads on it to screw into the other speedflow fitting.

il try and get a pic for u later on if i can, its hard to explain in words

Ahhh ok, I should have guessed. I need to do some research on these tools then, to figure out how much room I need to do it. I have the intake plenum off and don’t want to put it back on only to remove when I fit lines.

Thanks a lot, any pictures would be great

hey mate, yer its abit of a pain in the arse to do it in the car with motor in, we did it by pulling the lines down under the car so they were hanging way below the car and did it that way, u gotta cut off the factory flares to be able to slide the fitting and little cup (-6 in size) over the metal line and then flare the end with a flaring kit. the flaring kit we bought from bunnings its made for flaring plumbing pipe so they only cost like $15 for the kit and it does heaps of different sizes.

heres a pic of the fitting and the little cup, the big fitting slides over first and then the cup, and the metal flared pipe end has to end up bigger than the little cup fat end so it can seal against it. i dont have any pics of it installed, i will soon but not for a week or so.

the first pic is the little cup sitting inside the bigger fitting.

the 2nd one is the 2 fittings

3rd one is the way they go onto the metal line, so the big one first then the little one sits inside the big one and the bottom of the little one hangs below the big one. (as u can see in pic 1)

hope it makes sense :)

post-25698-1157789323.jpg

post-25698-1157789362.jpg

post-25698-1157789485.jpg

Edited by CruiseLiner
hey mate, yer its abit of a pain in the arse to do it in the car with motor in, we did it by pulling the lines down under the car so they were hanging way below the car and did it that way, u gotta cut off the factory flares to be able to slide the fitting and little cup (-6 in size) over the metal line and then flare the end with a flaring kit. the flaring kit we bought from bunnings its made for flaring plumbing pipe so they only cost like $15 for the kit and it does heaps of different sizes.

heres a pic of the fitting and the little cup, the big fitting slides over first and then the cup, and the metal flared pipe end has to end up bigger than the little cup fat end so it can seal against it. i dont have any pics of it installed, i will soon but not for a week or so.

the first pic is the little cup sitting inside the bigger fitting.

the 2nd one is the 2 fittings

3rd one is the way they go onto the metal line, so the big one first then the little one sits inside the big one and the bottom of the little one hangs below the big one. (as u can see in pic 1)

hope it makes sense :)

Hey CruiseLiner,

Thanks man, thats a great help, off to bunnings i go!

Mega cheers

M

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
×
×
  • Create New...