Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, clutches are something I don't know a lot about.

I got into the car this morning and 1st gear was really hard to get into and the car will start to take off immediately after I start to release the clutch pedal upwards. I also noticed that when I put it into second gear (I wanted to do a 2nd gear takeoff cause it was easier to get into than 1st gear) that the car would jump a little forward when engaging 2nd gear (even with my foot totally on the clutch). The clutch itself seems fine, it's not worn out.

Do these cars have hydraulic clutches?

Do I need to fill some reservoir?? Where do I need to look for that and what type of fluid do I need?

Car is a 1993 - R32 GTST - RB20DET

Need this fixed before days end cause I have to drive in and out of the city traffic again/stop/start and it's a real pain, it feels like I'm forcing the gears, which can't be good for the gearbox.

Fixxxer :D

Edited by Fixxxer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133785-clutch-issues-to-the-floor/
Share on other sites

not good for the gearbox. check the clutch fluid (resevoir should look similar to a brake fluid resevoir, will take brake fluid too), but if it's low then it basically means you have a leak, so either master or slave (or clutch line, but less likely) has issues.

brake shops can rebuild them, nissans new replacement prices on some cars is actually quite good and makes the rebuild not worth it, so worth a phone call.

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I've got the car back home now from the city.... 1st gear was almost crunching each time I had to put it into 1st gear, so it seems to be getting a little worse.

I had a look in the reservoir next to the brake stuff, the single pot is about 3/4 to the full mark, way above the MIN line, so I'm at a loss as to whats going wrong? Any further advice???

Fixxxer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...