Jump to content
SAU Community

My New R33 4door

ydawak

By ydawak,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

ydawak Community Regular

ydawak

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I am new so as ofg a few weeks ago so i thought i should share my car with you all. There are a few things i ahve done to it since i bought it.

First i got new coilovers - coz my shocks and springs were knackered.

Boost controller

Then i got some simple things like speco boost gauge and apexi turbo timer.

Intercooler

I was having some fuel problems (using a Sh!tload) so i took the car to nissan thinking that the job would be a $300 job or something like that and walked away with new GCG Highflow turbo, dump pipe and front pipe, exhaust manifold plained and straightened (due to warping) new gaskets, bolts, new o2 sensor, airflow meter and a couple of other things. The bolts on the manifol had snapped (8 of the 12 were stuffed) and a few other things were gone aswell. $3000 later went home from nissan and POOOOOOFFFFFF my intercooler piping blew off. They didnt fix it back on quite properly. (oh well it happens) i had never heard the piping blow off before so it scared the crap out of me. I wasn't even on full boost. (about 5psi ehehh)

Now a few weeks later i had a new intercooler pipe made up coz it was hitting my radiator fan and i thought all was good. HA not yet though. The car was set to 8psi. So when i was driving along it started miss fireing under full throttle. (i forgot to mention that when i bought the car the first thing i did was change plugs, oil, filters and airfilter. ) The plugs were gapped to 1.1. One of my friends told me that it could be the reason for my misfireing problem. So i changed them this last weekend and put 0.8mm plugs in. Just the NGK ones. This has got rid of the misfire but now i have noticed that my boost was creeping Up and up and up and up. HHHHMMMMMMMMM

I though about what it could be and with the help of some friends we may have figured it out. The wastegate on the new turbo may be hitting the dump pipe housing and not openning properly. Therefore causing the boost to keep going up. I think at one point( the forst time i noticed it it went to 16psi. My gauge is mounted in the old ashtray position and i was consentrating on the revs so i couldnt see both at once.

Anyway the car is back at nissan today and will see what they find. I did ask them to check the dump pipe when it went on but maybe they didn't. I don't know.

Anyway here are some pics of the car as it is now:)

post-31284-1157949951.jpgpost-31284-1157949996.jpgpost-31284-1157950054.jpgpost-31284-1157950094.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133826-my-new-r33-4door/
Share on other sites
ydawak Community Regular

ydawak

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Welcome to SAU Ben.

Car looks very clean and look forward to seeing it around.

Cheers GMB

PS: You should of bought Toffs 4 door, cleanest getting around :)

I don't know if i waould have been able to afford one that was already in tassie. I paid $7000 for this thing

:(

ydawak Community Regular

ydawak

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Benny that pipe looks fat mate. I have amanged to get a few thighs soughted out with mine, i tried to call last night but you weren't home.

I'll try tonight. Looking good

Yeah the pipe looks good. I found out why my boost is creeping. My wastegate is too small for the highflowed turbo. Does anyone know where i can get a GOOD mannifold with room for an external wastegate and also a wastegate??

If anyone knows that would be great. I will be happy when i finally can give it a real burn.

Talk to you tonight wog

Ben

ydawak Community Regular

ydawak

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey mate,

Your car looks good! What power is it making with that GCG Turbo?

Al

At the moment i have not had it on the dyno. I plan to in the future. The problem i am having is that the wastegate is too small . I think that maybe the guys didn't make the wastegate bigger when they highflowed the turbo.

I will post when i have power figure

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...