Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I unfortunatley have to sell my auto Skyline, it has costed me $13000...

Car has done 112000km, the new engine hasnt even been done yet, it getting done at a professional micks motorsports shop.

The car currently has:

BRAND NEW GCG HIGH FLOWED TURBO

Full Rebuilt engine with forged pistons.

Intercooler

Turbo Timer

BOV

haltech v11.2 worth $2900 i havnt even driven it since it was installed.

Walbro fuel pump

Forged pistons

Currently have the original injectors

Edited by the_game

Some pics, there not like a week old but thats basically it, ill get a few more pics when i get my car next week, its taking so long because the guy is doing his car (lancer) for the jamboree in qld, he is hoping for 8-7secs

post-31125-1158725909.jpg

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Gone down to $20000, with original mags and speakers

brand new engine and turbo and battery...

just had the oil for power steering and auto services...everything is fine and we had a little baby boy

hey guys

it turns out i spent $13250 in the past few months at micks motorsports for a ecu, engine rebuild and turbo

come on guys $20000 thats a good price for a brand new engine and brand new high flowed turbo and brand new ecu

Edited by the_game

yea, its kind of a sweet deal but i want someone here to buy it.

i prefer seeing someone add some good injectors and a good exhaust, build a solid gearbox and run it at the creek.

  • 2 weeks later...

Man i got offered alot less ($9000 for trade in and i paid $13250 in the past month or so)

So now i have put it on ebay, im at work now so i cannot put the ebay address up because bloody work has block ebay, but if you type in NISSAN SKYLINE R33 SERIES 2 BRAND NEW ENGIN AND TURBO youll see it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...