Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so your saying to do what i said but forget the ECU, NOS and throttel?

No

Forget the loud exhaust. N/A's sound raspy with big open exhausts. Turbo exhaust will be fine. most importantly throw on adj. cam gears and get the ecu tuned........ as i said in my previous post.

Regarding the RX7.... Can you afford to crack the motor and have the seals replaced at a later date? Few mates owned rotors during my late teens. All did seals and all spent $$ building them up. Don't forget the poor fuel consumption. If that doesn't bother you then hell grab it.. Especially if its a 13bt dropped in to a S3 RX7, nice and light. :)

Good fun little cars.

true that n/a's sounds raspy with normal mufflers, but throw in a bit resonator and they deepen right up.

Extractors > offset mufler > resonator = Deep throbbing throaghty exaust, sounds tough

some possible improvements may be an RB26 head with hex throttle bodies, and instead of forged pistons look into those hypereutic ones...

Yeah i was thinking about an RB26 head, but i think the extra money that would cost, would be best spent elsewhere/maybe doing up the RB25 a bit more, whats the flow differences?

Its hard building a motor, as you've gotta find a happy medium between power, drivability, economy, power and cost....

i was thinking about a Q45 90mm afm & Throttlebody... have you got any info/links on the "hypereuric" pistions...?

haha yeah, an RB26 head is not something you find lying around... unfortunately...

agree, the happy medium is the killer - but at the same time you're just dying to have the best parts to do it. especially with an NA, where your trying to extract every last kilowatt. unlike a turbo where if you lose some power here and there, its just a matter of adding more boost to make up for it.

in regards to hypereutectic pistons, i dont know anyone thats had experience with them - but from what i've read and heard about, they are like a happy medium between stock and forgies, they are an aluminum silicon combo, and seemed to be raved about for NA motors...

edit: found a wiki link, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston

actually you can pretty much google it.

bang for buck wise that may be true, but a few of the people here myself included are simply trying to build a well balanced driveable car that handles well, and has slightly more power than standard whilst maintaining reliability and keeping maintenance costs down.

you are never going to make big power or fast 1/4 mile times with an NA (in reference to a GTST), nor are you going to make big power with a GTST (in reference to lets say a GTR), nor a GTR (lets exaggerate and say a Zonda).

and while your points may be valid and true, NA cars are the base people choose have and want to work with. what i'm saying is that i'm sure most people here know about the futility of making big HP with NA cars and dont need someone telling them otherwise... and that is as a polite f**k off as you'll ever get.

also keep in mind that some of the faster cars around a track are NA, so while the fat chick cant do ballet, i'm sure she can try and do just as well.

p.s - i do not condone fat chicks.

with ya on that one mate :)

Hey I wiped off the rear of my 99 R34 GT-T and I'm selling the parts so if anyone on here is interested (the whole front end is fine) in buying my neo engine, gearbox, blitz front mount, nismo cluster, brakes, anything front end related drop me an e-mail at [email protected] and let me know what ur after n we can werk somethin out.

Oh also i got my plates if anyone wants them NSMO-34 black slimline.

Thanks!

Hey I wiped off the rear of my 99 R34 GT-T and I'm selling the parts so if anyone on here is interested (the whole front end is fine) in buying my neo engine, gearbox, blitz front mount, nismo cluster, brakes, anything front end related drop me an e-mail at [email protected] and let me know what ur after n we can werk somethin out.

Oh also i got my plates if anyone wants them NSMO-34 black slimline.

Thanks!

Was that Turbo or N/A

Hey guys already sold everything!! Thanx for viewing anyways. Oh and yes it was turbo durr lol

Actually I still got the plates so if anyone wants them yea jus email me. But yea teh whole car is pretty much gone.

Thanx

Edited by NSMO-34

Sold the entire running gear (engine, ecu, loom, gearbox, n clutch) for $3,500. I threw in my front mount, brakes, gauges, cluster (Nismo cluster fckn siiiick) for another $1,000. So pretty much the whole car for $4,500....pretty sad actually when I paid $30,000 for it :_(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...