Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry I should have been a little more clear..

I meant; have you any idea's why the VL may have ran hotter underload with an aftermarket thermostat that opens greater and earlier (not to mention also has a cooler general driving temp)?

As you said..

^^ If coolant does run to quickly it can't cool down properly and you will also get electrolysis which will attack welsh plugs, waterpump, thermostat houseing etc.

I said above the aftermarket is what made the VL run cooler under general conditions but when giving it a bootfull it would run hotter, hence my guess that the coolant may have been flowing too quick through the rad/engine etc/

The genuine thermostat brought temps up quicker, ran a tad warmer but kept the temps much more consistent and it didn't get as hot when giving it a bootfull.

I have ran an aftermarket thermostat in the RB20DET but didn't like how slow it was to warm up. As with the VL it also made the motor run a tad cooler (in the 70's vs low 80's). I didn't experience any hotter running conditions though, all it did was run cooler across the board.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I think this problem must be due to the position af the thermostat in the lower radiator hose. All cooling systems are setup with a thermostat bypass(usually a small hose) which keeps a small amount of coolant circulating even with the thermostat shut, with the thermostat in the lower hose, this bypass would be bigger, as the thermostat has more "heat lag" as in if the motor gets hot, it has to heat all the water in the radiator before the thermostat sees this increase and increases the flow. A bigger bypass reduces this lag. This probably explains wht skylines seem to take a bit linger than othe rcars to heat up, and why this problem seems confined to vl's and skylines.

anyone got a part number they would like to share, quoted price maybe?

(for ecu temp sensor)

also, whats the recomended guidline for the general replacement time-period? For example, the O2 sensor should be changed over every 40000kms I believe.

how long of a downhill are we talking about?

my car is warm after about 2kms, only a few minutes.

i'd say change ur thermostat and you should be right.

mine stays a touch under half once its warmed up. downhill or not.

AFAIK they last forever. they dont tend to die over time like an o2 sensor, as long as coolant is used, however they can break internally or externally

Im talking about around 10-15mins 100% steep downhill all the way, even with short hits of full throttle acceleration. Thats when the issue is most pronounced, but even driving around on the open road if its majority no throttle slight downhill it still cools down to the 50-60degree level, just like cubes has seen.

Adriano, i have not pulled mine out, so you could be right in that it is broken, but i reckon its just died over time, there might be some manufacturing differences which result in good and a few bad ones?

In heavy traffic mine warms up sort of quick, maybe around 8mins if its not cold outside, in light traffic (mostly light throttle too) i have driven up to 15mins and it still isnt warm.

I must add Willunga hill is the only time I've seen engine temps drop. Around here its pretty flat. Slight hills but not long enough to drop engine temps.

Your thermostat definitly sounds iffy siksII. Even on 4degree mornings I start the car drive it 30seconds later and no later than 1-2minutes or ~1-2km its up to operating temp (82-84degree's). As I mentioned earlier the only time I've seen the car take longer than this to warm up was when running the aftermarket el' cheapo thermostat.

Its my oil pressure/temp that takes ages to drop/warm. I've timed ~8minutes of driving before oil pressure is normal.

yeah i know its dodgy, i have been very lazy lately, i cant bring myself to get out, buy one and change it :P

while we are on this topic, does anyone know if when cold, the power fc changes timing as well as AFR, or just AFR?

and either way with the default setting, what diffrence in AFR/degrees does it make?

i have seen there is a table in there that u can change, but cant remember the details, and i dont think i understood to what degree it changed things either.

Edited by siksII
  • 7 months later...
Two ways you can check it.

Firstly by disconnecting the plug and using a multimeter measure the resistance across the two terminals at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 2.5k ohm

80deg 0.3k ohm

Second way is to measure the voltage between ecu pin 28 and earth at the different water temps.

Spec is

20deg 3V

80deg 1V

As long as the test results are somewhere close to the spec it isn't faulty.

Hope that helps.

I'm gonna raise this from the dead! :domokun:

I tested the voltage coming off my engine temp sensor (for the instrument cluster, not the ecu sensor) and it's starts up at like 8Volts, is that normal?

The Gauge dosn't work and I'm trying to find out why. I drive a A31 and an rb25 has been swapped in, so far I've found a wire that was soldered together with the temp sensor wires that should not have been :S I figured that would fix it. But now it just sits at the bottom, where as it would go strait to half and not move with that wire connected.

Ok, what you need to do is locate the wire from the dash/temp guage that should connect to the temp sender on the engine (its a single wire)

Now, get this wire and connect it to ground/earth temporarily.

Turn on ignition and see if guage rises to full scale (HOT) - Turn the ignition off before it shoots off the scale.

If it deflects to full scale, you know the guage is working fine and you will have to get the correct sender in the engine to suit the dash guage.

So basically make sure you use the A31 original sender not the RB25 item, that would be different.

  • 3 weeks later...
anyone got a part number they would like to share, quoted price maybe?

(for ecu temp sensor)

also, whats the recomended guidline for the general replacement time-period? For example, the O2 sensor should be changed over every 40000kms I believe.

hey, anyone with a part number? Ive been searching and just cant find it.

what part number, where can you get it from?

I gather the going rate is around $50.

cheers in advance

Tangles..

The ecu's water temp sensor is the 2 pin larger sensor. Its the same as the R31/VL RB30's.

Aftermarket I priced one up around $40; new nissan i believe they are around $90.

The water temp sensors are the same as the rb26 inlet temp sensors.

But do check it looks the same before ordering as you never know. ;)

How would the engine run if you just put a 0.3kohm resister into the plug, so it never had cold richen?

what is the reason engines run rich at idle, safety (for morons who cane the car cold so they dont cook the motor? since lean burning is a hotter explosion)?

I noticed going from a clutch fan to temp controlled electric thermo made my warm ups quicker

Ever driven an old carb motor without a choke? :thumbsup:

You need the cold start enrichment; they drive like absolute cops without it.

I've leaned mine out as much as possible before I experience drivability hessitation & bogging problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...