Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You get a valvebody upgrade from MV Automatics in Adelaide. I had it done. Absolutely awesome.

They do exchange so you buy it and put it in then send yours back for a partial refund. There's an old group buy thread about it with heaps of info.

not if you call a valve body upgrade a "shift kit"

my valve body is original.

just the clutches n synchros inside the box are different.

i will be going back for the manual valve body

and little black box to intercept the auto g/box

computer so i can run a powerFC.

He does the same as MV automatics in that aspect.

I Just started of with strengthen my box before going

manual valve body.

Not sure if its any better then just a valve body upgrade

but it sure is better then stock.

"manual valve body" = stage 3 shift kit

(from what mike at MV automatics has told me)

this means that the gear stick controlls what gear you are in via 1-2-D-o/d and only changes when you change the position of the gearstick

also, RSTME, as far as i was aware, the solenoids which are commonly changed to help with shifts, are part of the valve body, aren't they?

and the most important question is also for RSTME:

do you have any more info on this "black box" which supposedly allows you to run a powerFC? who makes it? what exactly does it do?

thanks

Warren

"manual valve body" = stage 3 shift kit

(from what mike at MV automatics has told me)

this means that the gear stick controlls what gear you are in via 1-2-D-o/d and only changes when you change the position of the gearstick

also, RSTME, as far as i was aware, the solenoids which are commonly changed to help with shifts, are part of the valve body, aren't they?

and the most important question is also for RSTME:

do you have any more info on this "black box" which supposedly allows you to run a powerFC? who makes it? what exactly does it do?

thanks

Warren

I'm pretty sure that MV Automatics (black box) sell them but not sure if they make em just ring Mike and ask ..........

regards

wrxxy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...