Jump to content
SAU Community

Spiking Like Crazy!

jd06

By jd06,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
Posted

Hey folks just after some advice here, I am struggling to figure this one out!

I recently installed a Blitz DSBC Spec S Single Solenoid boost controller on my car (R33 S2).

The car is standard with a 3" exhaust/ dump pipe & pod filter.

After setting the desired settings (NORMAL 0.5 bar HIGH 0.7 bar) I noticed the boost spikes dramatically (to approx 0.95 bar) during vigorous gear changes. The boost stabilizes a split second after a gear change has been made.

I have managed to reduce the severity of spiking by lowering the boost warning setting but this just leads to jerky power delivery as the boost controller tries to constantly correct boost during gear changes.

Strangely, when the boost controller is switched off this spiking still occurs.

How can this be cured?

This boost controller does NOT offer GAIN or boost response settings?

Any suggestions or help is welcome. Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136871-spiking-like-crazy/
Share on other sites
ULOOOK Proficient

ULOOOK

Posted
Posted

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.

I am currently using the non standard Blitz Solenoid that was bundled with the boost controller.

The factory Nissan one has been removed. It's puzzling... When I turn the Blitz controller off it runs 0.5 bar (standard). However if the car is pushed harder i.e. quick gear change it will still spikes!

What are Blitz Boost controllers like as a general rule??? Are the problematic?

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I am currently using the non standard Blitz Solenoid that was bundled with the boost controller.

The factory Nissan one has been removed. It's puzzling... When I turn the Blitz controller off it runs 0.5 bar (standard). However if the car is pushed harder i.e. quick gear change it will still spikes!

What are Blitz Boost controllers like as a general rule??? Are the problematic?

Hey guys, any more ideas with this one???

Surely someone else out there has had similar troubles.

Cheers.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

just out of curiousity, where is the pressue hose run from? is it run from the bov hose is it? possibly done when fitting a front mount cooler.

i had spiking with my $22 controller after i did my cooler install. i had the hose hooked from the bov hose (like it shows in the instructions). this caused spiking on gear changes. i moved the hose to the 'hot' cooler pipe (took the nipple off the old cooler pipe and stuck it on the hot pipe). this solved my problem.

Flea Community Regular

Flea

Posted
Posted
just out of curiousity, where is the pressue hose run from? is it run from the bov hose is it? possibly done when fitting a front mount cooler.

i had spiking with my $22 controller after i did my cooler install. i had the hose hooked from the bov hose (like it shows in the instructions). this caused spiking on gear changes. i moved the hose to the 'hot' cooler pipe (took the nipple off the old cooler pipe and stuck it on the hot pipe). this solved my problem.

The boost controller pressure hose taps into the fuel pressure regulator or the small vacuum hose coming out of the front of the plenum chamber.

I also have a mechanical boost gauge tapping into this same location. Do you think I should relocate the boost pressure line?

The pressure hose for the boost controller itself is small in diameter. Approximately the same size as the factory vacuum line exiting the back of the plenum... :laugh:

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
The boost controller pressure hose taps into the fuel pressure regulator or the small vacuum hose coming out of the front of the plenum chamber.

I also have a mechanical boost gauge tapping into this same location. Do you think I should relocate the boost pressure line?

The pressure hose for the boost controller itself is small in diameter. Approximately the same size as the factory vacuum line exiting the back of the plenum...

so the hose is rather long? i would relocate the pressure line to before the cooler. that way the hose will be nice and short. and it also won't suffer spiking due to cold nights.

you will find that companies like HKS have the wastegate line coming off the compressor side of the turbo.

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
so the hose is rather long? i would relocate the pressure line to before the cooler. that way the hose will be nice and short. and it also won't suffer spiking due to cold nights.

you will find that companies like HKS have the wastegate line coming off the compressor side of the turbo.

Cheers for the advice mate! I might have to redo the hose set up in this case...

justin911 Grand Master

justin911

Posted
Posted

umm i got the same boost controller.... and it definetly offers set/gain settings....

you sure u read the manual on howto set it up properly ?

sounds like you havnt entered the 'set' value correctly..

btw, lemi know if you need the manual for it (took me ages to find online)

This boost controller does NOT offer GAIN or boost response settings?

Any suggestions or help is welcome. Thanks guys!

justin911 Grand Master

justin911

Posted
Posted

i run mine on 12psi, has no spiking issues....

i think the limit is 16psi for the spec-s, not .7 bar

I had a spec s boost controller on my skyline (r33 s1). I was told that once you go over .7 bar the boost solenoid needs to be upgraded($110). I think its even written in the operating instructions. I tried to run mine at 1 bar and it just went stupid, spiking to 1.5 bar. So i got rid of it.
jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i run mine on 12psi, has no spiking issues....

i think the limit is 16psi for the spec-s, not .7 bar

The Blitz I have only has a single solenoid (Spec S version).

The manual I have is in Japanese so its not much use to me :laugh:

My high boost setting is set for around 10psi but it spikes well above this (approx 13psi)

When I toggle the controller (left mode button) I don't have a gain function.

If you could post up the manual you are referring to that would be great!

Thanks

justin911 Grand Master

justin911

Posted
Posted

change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

When I toggle the controller (left mode button) I don't have a gain function.

If you could post up the manual you are referring to that would be great!

Thanks

SBC_SPECS.pdf

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Ahh thanks mate, you are a gent :(

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Ahh thanks mate, you are a gent :(

jd06 Enthusiast

jd06

Posted
  • Author
Posted
change menus till you get to the 'set' screen. then press and hold down "mode" for a few seconds, that will change to the gain value and let you change it.

for my r33 gtst, i have 11 / 48 values. Which gives me a tiny bit over 12psi.

Hey Justin,

I have now found the GAIN setting thanks heaps!!! What GAIN setting do you suggest? What do you run?

I have a stock turbo, standard cooler & 3 inch exhaust.

justin911 Grand Master

justin911

Posted
Posted

i use 11 for my gain.

try something like that... yours is probably on the default setting of like 30 or something >_<

Hey Justin,

I have now found the GAIN setting thanks heaps!!! What GAIN setting do you suggest? What do you run?

I have a stock turbo, standard cooler & 3 inch exhaust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...