Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

running the auto on a dyno can be a pain.

you either leave it in second and it smokes the wheels,

or you try doing the run in 3rd, and hope it dosent kick back at high revs.

There is a solution..

on the driver side in the engine bay near the radiator.

down near the chassis rail, there are three eletrical plugs.

if you disconnect the brown plug your car will only have 3rd gear.

which is 1 : 1 or 4th in a manual.

make sure you tell the dyno operator that he now only has third and can slowly build up to

about 60kph then give it to it.

it makes dyno time so much smoother and far less stress will be placed on your trans..

i hope this helps a few people.

Darren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136909-all-r33-auto-owners-please-read/
Share on other sites

You dont start at WOT if doing it in second.

what do you mean by this?

i never said you do start at WOT in second.

but im sure a lot of people with more then 200 kws would be spinning the wheels in second.

Dangerman I gather what you mean is you can get high loadings on the engine at low revs without it running up the rev range as it may in 2nd .

I don't run an auto myself but I am curious to know if they have a converter "lock" like NA VL's did (I think) and if so can this be manually achieved (electrically) to get direct drive . Just a thought .

Cheers A .

Dangerman I gather what you mean is you can get high loadings on the engine at low revs without it running up the rev range as it may in 2nd .

I don't run an auto myself but I am curious to know if they have a converter "lock" like NA VL's did (I think) and if so can this be manually achieved (electrically) to get direct drive . Just a thought .

Cheers A .

as most auto owners would know its very hard to tune your car well in second.

by unplugging the brown plug you can then tune all the cruising and off boost part of the map.

as well as ramp it up consistently in the same gear every time.

im not sure about the VL but by removing this plug it disables all gears apart from 3rd which is direct drive.

by unplugging the brown plug you can then tune all the cruising and off boost part of the map.

WoW...i didnt know that!

I've spoken to a few that say they will tune my Auto R33 but none have mentioned this....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...