Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning Gents,

I've got two different idle issues but only one occurs at any given time.

1st: A very small hunt, like 50rpm hunt, it just bounces back and forth a little, only just registers on the tacho but you can hear it in the exhaust.

2nd: If it's not doing that at idle then when gearing down to a complete stop when I put the clutch in and engage first the idle will jump to say 1100rpm then after maybe 1-2 seconds, return to normal. It will do this any time I am coming to a stop and it happens when I engage the clutch.

Background, I've searched about these issues and have removed and cleaned the AAC and AFM. The AAC did have a fair bit of build-up on it and I did my best to clean it, it was literally swimming in carby cleaner :happy: For a period the idle hunt (which at the time was a bigger hunt) went away. The idle increase on clutching has not gone away. The AFM was cleaned with Electrical contact cleaner and the mesh was wiped over carefully, no change.

For reference, car only has a POD with a mr_crust airbox, cat back, low boost bypass on the solenoid and a boost guage as far as mods that could interfer with air flow characteristics, these problems were evident before these mods and have seemingly not been affected by them for the better or worse.

Thoughts? Otherwise I might take the AAC valve off again and totally dismantle it so I can really clean it properly but I'd like to hear other peoples thoughts on the matter.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/
Share on other sites

The sensor is no more than 1yr old as I replaced it when I got the car (it was shagged) and my rego is due next week :P The car does smell a bit rich on start and despite checking the seals I still see fuel vapour from the filler cap so I assume the smell is coming from there. The car returns around 12.5-13L per 100 around town so that's acceptable as I understand it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/#findComment-2556551
Share on other sites

It's been intermittent since I've had the car and I've tried the things above that I mentioned and haven't really gotten far besides when I cleaned the AAC valve which seemed to stop the hunt issue. The hunt comes and goes but the idle jump on engaging the clutch and putting it into gear when approaching an interesection is pretty consistent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/#findComment-2562905
Share on other sites

Only time I have really seen what you describe is when you put an Auto ECU into a manual car.

The Auto ecu looks at the neutral position sensor on the gearbox and goes ok, you just put it in gear, lets idle up for the load the auto puts on the engine when in gear.

But if you have a manual just because you change out of neutral doesn't mean there is any load on the engine because the clutch is still dipped.

The manual ecu doesn't have this extra idle up because it isn't needed.

If the ecu is the correct item for the vehicle then maybe the clutch is not releasing properly and putting slight drag on the engine when the gear is engaged, does the clutch release fully when dipped?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/#findComment-2562933
Share on other sites

I've had the ECU out before and it 'seemed' normal but I couldn't honestly say if it was right or not, the problem is intermittent thoguh so if it was ECU I doubt it would be behaving this way. As for the clutch booster, how di I tell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/#findComment-2562940
Share on other sites

I had a similar prob with idle being abit wierd and getting stuck and going up to 1,100rpm by itself. Ended up being TPS cleaned the contacts and all good :D Not to sure if it would help but atleast its something else to look into.Another person I know had a pod filter changed it back to stock ecu reset and good. RB25's r mysterious sometimes good luck mate!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/#findComment-2563255
Share on other sites

Did you see these threads from last week.

Slightly different problem to yourself, but you might as well check the air regulator if you are still hunting for the problem.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=135917&hl=

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=136269&hl=

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/137371-idle-issues/#findComment-2563348
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...