Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy a pump if you can. Makes your life 1000% easier.

If you can't your hands on a pump, I think the only other way would be to try and feed a hose down through the gearstick hole somehow....

Not sure how but !!!!

I got my pump at SuperCheap for $15 :D

J

Going through the shifter hole aint a bad idea but there is 1 tricky brass circlip you must defeat first.

To remove the gearshift,

undo the 2 screws behind the ashtray...

unscrew the gear knob off...

lift out the centre surround (its clipped in, give it a little tug upwards from the end pointing towards the handbrake)...

remove the next rubber cover (4 screws)...

turn the next rubber boot upwards and inside-out to get it out the way...

now you can see the top of the shifter and 2 circlips inside...

the silver looking one can stay there...

the brassy looking one needs to come out (unfortunately it doesnt have any eyelets to use a proper circlip tool on it) :D

if you get this clip out, the whole lot just lifts straight out...

make sure you left it in neutral to make it easy going back in...

now you can use a funnel or even a squeezy water bottle to add the CORRECT amount of oil.

dont spill gear oil inside the car whatever you do!

put it all back together the same way

Now the real fun part... getting that circlip back on!

get an extra pair of hands to help work this puppy back in!

hope i havent forgotten anything

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...