Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the contact patch thing is a myth. force is pressure times area, and the pressure a tyre can exert on the road is equal to its internal air pressure. therefore no matter what shape of tyre (wide or skinny) you will have the SAME area on the road.

However, a wider tyre will have a wider patch and a skinny tyre will have a longer patch. wider patch is better for cornering grip, skinnier patch is better for driving in the wet as there is less water to push out of the way.

There's a trick with this when it comes to using a wider tyre & that is to use a slightly lower air pressure in the tyre. This way the contact patch is expanded sideways while giving roughly the same contact length as the skinnier tyre. Overall you should end up with a lot more surface area.

This theory is also very dependant on what kind of profile your tyre has. A lower profile tyre would generally stay a bit rounder than a higher profile one hence drag cars have very high profile tyres on the rear in relation to cars that have to corner too.

For 2 tyres of the same rim diameter & sidewall height, I think you will find the difference long ways to be negligable in comparison to the gain you get from going to a wider tyre & wheel when keeping the type of tyre the same.

Edited by JazzaR33
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the contact patch thing is a myth. force is pressure times area, and the pressure a tyre can exert on the road is equal to its internal air pressure. therefore no matter what shape of tyre (wide or skinny) you will have the SAME area on the road.

However, a wider tyre will have a wider patch and a skinny tyre will have a longer patch. wider patch is better for cornering grip, skinnier patch is better for driving in the wet as there is less water to push out of the way.

actually what your saying is a myth. if we were talking about a balloon which deformed proportionally to the amount of force applied to it, then yes this would apply. but when you have a tyre with stiff sidewalls, the deformation is no where near proportional, and so size of the contact patch does vary.

  • 3 weeks later...

Alright Guys...

last night headed down to WSID with my STOCK r33 rims 205/55/r16 wrapped with TOYO T1R's and guess what?!.

2.082 60ft with 32psi tyre pressure.

previously was running Dunlop Formula RSV 98Spec 255/40/r17 and got best of 2.382 60ft with varying tyre pressures. and consistent 2.4-2.5 60ft.

LAST NIGHT very first run 13.640 from a previous PB of 14flat with a 2.133 60ft then consistent 2.1-2.2 60ft's the whole night.

Sooo HAPPY!!.. thats it gonna aim for a 1.999 60ft with 205/55/r16 toyo tyres now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...