Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my new rims sit so close to the calipers on the rear with the dish that I can barely get my nail in between them at the closest point between the two... now theres quite a few people on here with the same rims on the same kind of car, so I'm guessing as long as the wheels turn without hitting (no matter how close) that the distance to caliper doesn't matter?

theres about a centimetre of clearance at the front but maybe 2mm at rear... this is with starcorp racing impuls (deep dish pack).

woot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138581-brake-caliper-clearance-with-rims/
Share on other sites

I had about the same on the front. Everyone told me not an issue. I mean if it was it means your wheel or something has to be flexing a bit I guess. Which would mean you have some other issues.

Here's a pic of mine, even with spacers i cant fit anything between the rim and the caliper, and i mean anything!

The corner of the "N" of the "NISSAN" has been worn down by the spokes of the rim, yes, its that close :)

You could get like a 5mm spacer to get rid of the proximity issue if it really bothers you, or whatever

(dont have many pics of the rims, but this will give an idea i guess, they're dirty in the second pic :) , remember, this is on 20mm spacers )

steveortasuk7ds.jpg

dsc01776__large_.jpg

sau_20051113_gong_17-1.jpg

sau_20051113_gong_18-1.jpg

awww you got deep dish at the front? f**k i want that too it looks tight :(

I suppose u had to pay extra when buying the set to get dished front and rear ay? if you dont mind how much extra was it?

yer i did think that was a possibility but I *think* that its the end edge that is the closest (not the bit with the logo) but I am not 100% and cars not here right now to check out.

you can grind the nissan off the callipers if its really close. seen that done.

I have the R34 GTT wheels on my R33 series 2, and between the caliper and the inner part of the rim, I couldn't get a nail inbetween the two.

I guess it would only become an issue if/when the wheel-bearings wear out horribly... I guess that's the only time the wheel could move closer to the caliper housing.

awww you got deep dish at the front? f**k i want that too it looks tight ;)

I suppose u had to pay extra when buying the set to get dished front and rear ay? if you dont mind how much extra was it?

Thanks dude :(

Yeah its extra, i cant remember how much, but it was significant

I guess thats why this set is so hard to find

I had to grind off the nissan, and about 1mm of the lowest part of the caliper to get mine on :D. Got a new set of calipers, and just saving up for Volks then bye bye to my "McGyverised" calipers. Next time i will get spacers doh!!

cheers

Evil

got 19's recently..brake calipers ended up clearing by 1mm or so, using a 8mm spacer.

had to change all my studs to the longer studs suited for r33.

if anyone is interested, the model number for the stud + bolt is NS4530. That is for the R33 gtst series 1.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...