Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry mate with the imformation you have given us it could be hundreds of things, anything is just a guess. I would look into the diagnostics in the computer before you take it to a mechanic, as most wont know how to do it and youll end up spending money for them to figure it out. If you dont feel comfortable doing it, just find out the procedure and give that to the mechanic, it could save you several hundred dollars in misdiagnosis. Remember an engine only needs three things to start, fuel, ignition and compression all in the correct quntities.

My Nissan Vector years ago just died also at a set of traffic light.

Could not start it after that, would not even crank.

It was the ECU.

You said you had crank but no start......

You also said there has been some work on your car recently involving you AFM's.

More than likely your tune has been reset or your plugs and or coils have some problems.

Did the car run well before this happened?

yeah the car ran perfect. the only mod was a front mount which we had the stock air box cut to fit the cooler pipes. apart from that the car was great.

Sorry. if your nissan vector wouldn't even crank, then the problem wasn't the ecu.

Another obvious thing to look for is any intercooler hose that has popped off, but im pretty surre the car would still start, it would just run really rich.

thanx again for your help everyone, ive found out that i needed a new fuel pump! bit pissed with the car yard considering i only bought the car 3 weeks ago! lucky im covered with warranty tho.

Did the car yard warn you that the Kms could quite possibly be non genuine?

na mate if you saw the car you would think different. fuel pumps go on new cars too. besides the car has done a lot of sitting round as it is 8 yrs old! they are genuine k's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...