Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump Install

Fry_33

By Fry_33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I have got a Nismo direct replacement intank fuel pump for my R33 GTST and am thinking about chucking it in. Before I open her up though, does the tank need to be really empty or is just above the quarther mark ok?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138733-fuel-pump-install/
Share on other sites
dead32 Mentor

dead32

Posted
Posted

for the instal it can be bone dry or totaly full it doesnt matter, however when u first go to turn ignition on to start, i would advise it has a safe level of fuel for it to pick up for first time running, fuel is a lube for the pump...

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

And Doh! I did mine full...............I was cursing myself the whole time for not remembering how full I had it.

If you haven't done the pump before, 1/4 full is good, it lets you see whats going on a bit better.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Yes it sux having your arm in it.

I had a weird problem one night, had a full tank of fuel and had to replace and check the wiring on the pump about 5 times in an hour. It was about 30 degrees that night too and humid as hell. I had sweat and petrol drying on me for so long and it sucked.

So yeah, fairly empty is good. :P:ninja:

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your input everyone, ended up doing it with just under a quarter of a tank (went for a short drive to get the fuel down a little more) and it was fine. Removing the lid is a bit of a bitch and getting the pump to seat properly too but seems to be working fine. So hopefully now its ready and safe to accept a few more performance mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Kinkstaah
      WTB R34 GTR Guard Liners

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • itsmeyo
      WTB R34 GTR Guard Liners

      By itsmeyo · Posted

      Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...