Dr30 Chassis Reinforcement/seam Welding

[DR30RULES]

I want freshen/reinforce the chassis rigidity.

It will be a road car with some track days and such.

Anyone out there ever seam welded a DR30 chassis?

Is it worth it or is it over kill for a road car?

Any advise or informed opinions would be very helpful

Cheers

[Matty T]

The R30 chassis is actually not bad. For your sort of work, I'd suggest a set of front and rear strut braces - that's about it (the rear brace is optional, in fact). Seriously, I think it would be alot of time and effort for little reward. Springs, dampers, swaybars, and camber / toe changes will gain you far more than any chassis stiffening will - at least at the level you are talking about.

My DR30 is a rally car, and the chassis cops quite a large amount of punishment. The car has a full roll cage (which helps in the stiffening department), but otherwise, the car is not seam welded at all. I am waiting to see where it starts to split. To this point though (8 rallies), everything seems pretty sound. I am quite impressed!

I want freshen/reinforce the chassis rigidity.

It will be a road car with some track days and such.

Anyone out there ever seam welded a DR30 chassis?

Is it worth it or is it over kill for a road car?

Any advise or informed opinions would be very helpful

Cheers

[DR30RULES]

The R30 chassis is actually not bad. For your sort of work, I'd suggest a set of front and rear strut braces - that's about it (the rear brace is optional, in fact). Seriously, I think it would be alot of time and effort for little reward. Springs, dampers, swaybars, and camber / toe changes will gain you far more than any chassis stiffening will - at least at the level you are talking about.

My DR30 is a rally car, and the chassis cops quite a large amount of punishment. The car has a full roll cage (which helps in the stiffening department), but otherwise, the car is not seam welded at all. I am waiting to see where it starts to split. To this point though (8 rallies), everything seems pretty sound. I am quite impressed!

I understand what your saying. I was interested in doing it more for long term reliablity/strenghthening of the chassis than any major handling improvments.

I am spending a lot a money restoring the DR and I just don't what anything to let the car down long term.

The car already has a cusco adjustable front brace.

Cheers

[Matty T]

Hey, if you have already got the car stripped down and you have the time / want, then go for it. Places to concentrate on are: front strut towers, rear strut towers, the seams across the floor where the floorpan sheets meet (where the front of the rear seat is), and the front chassis rails (particularly where they meet the firewall).

If you wanted to do some reinforcing, then I would throw some 2mm steel plate around the chassis rail->firewall meet point, and run some from the "A" pillar to the front strut towers (on the outside, under the front guards).

If you haven't had enough fun yet, then I'd suggest stitching the gearbox crossmember and rear diff mounts, as well as the rear crossmember mount box section.

That would make for a seriously nice, stiff and strong shell.

[DR30RULES]

Hey, if you have already got the car stripped down and you have the time / want, then go for it. Places to concentrate on are: front strut towers, rear strut towers, the seams across the floor where the floorpan sheets meet (where the front of the rear seat is), and the front chassis rails (particularly where they meet the firewall).

If you wanted to do some reinforcing, then I would throw some 2mm steel plate around the chassis rail->firewall meet point, and run some from the "A" pillar to the front strut towers (on the outside, under the front guards).

If you haven't had enough fun yet, then I'd suggest stitching the gearbox crossmember and rear diff mounts, as well as the rear crossmember mount box section.

That would make for a seriously nice, stiff and strong shell.

Yeah the car will be stripped.

That basically sounds like EXACTLY what I wanted to do!!!

Anyone know of workshops in melbourne who this sort of thing?

Alternatively I would love to do it myself but I do not have any welding experience and this sounds like something that should be done on a chassis jig, yes?

Thanks heaps for the input.

Cheers

Cheers

[Matty T]

No need for a chassis jig. Just need a mig welder, some practice sheets of (thin) sheet metal, some patience to get the mig's settings right, and Bob's your Aunties live-in lover!

For the pieces of reinforcing sheet, make a template out of cardboard and take it to your local metal supply shop. They should be able to cut it up for you pretty cheaply. Either that, or do what I do - buy yourself a SuperCrap electric jigsaw, some metal cutting blades for it, and cut them out yourself.

If you have the car stripped, you can always take it to someone who builds rally cars and get them to stitch it for you. I would expect the bill to be anywhere from $500 - $1000, depending on what you wanted done, and how bare the car is.

[Ghostrider]

Just my 2 bob's worth.

I think it's a waste of time and money, in particular if your paying someone to do it. All the proof coating has to come off then replaced after welding etc etc etc.

I'm never selling my HR30 PNV, or don't intend to before I croak at least.

I have a 300HP + engine going in and I'm not doing anything like what your suggesting. Strut braces front and rear, possible rear floor brace, and that's about it for me and I can't see any problems.

Unless your going into full noise racing, I wouldn't bother, but having said that, go ask Gavin, the guy rebuilding the original George Fury #30 car and ask him IF they (Fred Gibson Motorsport) seam welded the body. I would be interested to know his answers.

Cheers, D