Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, I am blowing smoke and I gave that up ages ago!

The old girl needs replacing (after 250,000kms!) so I thought I would see what people had (if anything).

I only need to replace the engine itself so really don't need the manifolds, turbo, loom, ecu, box ect... but will take what I can get.

I would perfer locally as I would like to avoid paying for shipping but I guess someone had to! I don't like my chances :)

If you don't have one, do you know where the best place to source one would be? I purchased my MR2 1/2 cut from Asian Auto Spares and was very happy but haven't found too many sites so any help would be great!

I have PM'd Dan to see if he still has his and I will keep looking around!

Thanks in advance guys!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139696-wtb-rb20det/
Share on other sites

dont supose you want to look into rebiulding one? im pretty sure that dan is putting his rb back into his 31.

quite a few people have blow ones sitting around so sourcing another motor to biuld up so you can keep driving wouldnt be hard.

im not sure on costs of something like this but matt had and engine and rebiuld kit for sale a while back. maybe pm him and quiz him on his findings?

if your going to stick with a 20 than thats what i would do because you will know the engine will be strong.

hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139696-wtb-rb20det/#findComment-2604302
Share on other sites

Cheers Damo.

From what I hear Raymond has an RB20 with genuine 70k kms on the clock for sale (after upgrading to an RB25).

It made around 156rwkw with less mods than mine with Dr Drift when mine made 135rwkw so it is obviously pretty healthy. I hope that with my Exhaust, Filter, EBC, Bosch 040, FMIC, R34 turbo, GTR injectors and Z32 AMF I should be looking at 180-190rwkw...

As I said mine has 250,000kms so it it probably best to get something fresh and start my long-term rebuild... (still not sure if I will flog mine off for parts and buy a blown RB25 and build that up with forgies ect).

Anyway, I hope Raymond still has his motor availible so I can plan the future of my little chitty chitty bang bang. (still fine to drive but want something reliable before Dr Drift comes back down!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139696-wtb-rb20det/#findComment-2604435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
×
×
  • Create New...