Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls...

I'm looking at getting some new suspension and everywhere I search I just can't seem to find the answers to my questions on what I really need.

I've got bugger all clue about suspension, and there are differences between som packages that I'm not sure about.

I've heard that G4 coilovers are good, but they don't come with camber tops, etc..... I was always lead to believe that you needed these things on a skyline.

Can someone tell me if this is true?

Also, I was looking at SK's Bilstein & Whiteline stuff.

I've got very little clue as to what most of that stuff is and nobody in the thread seems to elaborate much on what you would need for most cars. Which I'm sure more then just me would be wondering.

There seems to be a thousand options/combinations, and I don't know which one would be right.

If it helps, specifically, I have a R33 S1 GTS-t and all I do at the moment is road driving, but I hope to do a few track days later on.

Thanks.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140235-suspensioncamber-pillow-tops/
Share on other sites

g4 coilovers?? arent they chinese same as those brakes?

Cant go wrong with SK's package. Bushes there for alignment, antiroll bars for body roll control and shocks and springs. The setup is good for street and good for track days.

Please don't buy G4's they are COMPLETE rubbish. Anyone that tells you otherwise either doesn't know what good suspension is like or is a sales person selling them.

Remember a hard ride doesn't mean good handling. That is the most common misconception. The dampers are by far the most important factor in the equation. When you buy the chinese and even jap shocks you are getting twin tube shocks which are inferior to the monotube bilsteins.

Get SK's suspension, it will be more comfortable and handle better than the G4's.

If the car is primarily a street car don't get pillowball tops.. they are rose jointed and will rattle like there is no tomorrow and really annoy you.

Camber bolts are satisfactory for your purpose.

for starters you cant get camber tops for skylines (R32 onwards) because they use double wishbone suspension. changing the angle of the strut has no effect on the angle of the hub.

you need adjustable upper arms, or upper arm bushes to adjust camber.

as said by the previous 2 guys, G4 are crap. these sort of coilovers are made to a price target and nothing else. so you get a really crappy unresearched shock. the bilsteins on the other hand are amazing

Group Buy

Why good shocks are better than cheapies

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...