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Rotor Stud Replacement

Richo
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salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted (edited)

go to nissan to get new studs, theyre not much few bucks.

the stud is not in your rotor, it is in your hub. just hit it with a hammer with the rotor and caliper off and it will fall out the back. dont be scared if you need to hit it hard.

get a new stud, feed it through from behind and then get a washer and a nut and tigheten the nut to pull it all the way through.

for this you either need hold the hub still, like with someone holding the other studs with a big screw driver and tighetening the nut, or put everything back on and get someone to hold the brakes or use a rattle gun

Edited by salad
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Since one has snapped i'd consider replacing all of them if it were me. Some dumbass has probably overtightened them and they're all suspect. I couldnt believe how much over-tightened stuff i found on my car.... At the very least hold the new stud up against the other old ones to see if the threads "intermesh" perfectly. If they dont it will mean that the stud is stretched and about to fail.

FWIW its very important torque you wheel nuts correctly, you can get rotor warpage if you dont. IIRC its 100-110Nm. Also remember to use the "pentagram" order when you tighten them up.

HTH,

Kot

Richo Mentor

Richo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys, I thought for a second I was going to have to replace the whole thing :D

This may be an stupid question but hey, how do you apply an specific amount of torque to a nut? I mean is there an special torque measurement device thingy :D

Thanks again guys

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the replies guys, I thought for a second I was going to have to replace the whole thing :rofl:

This may be an stupid question but hey, how do you apply an specific amount of torque to a nut? I mean is there an special torque measurement device thingy :(

Yep the thingy is a torque wrench. I got a half inch drive Kinchrome (which is a good brand) for $70 at Bunnings, no doubt you could get one cheaper if you shopped around - just get a good brand. Your car will love you for treating her nice.... Next thing you need is one of those .pdf's of the workshop manuals so you can lookup the torque setting of whatever you're doing up.

Rgs,

Kot

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
soon people will need torque screwdrivers, seriously its not hard to know when its tight enough lols

this is a lil bit wrong, with a good example being the exhaust studs on the manifold.

If u do it with a torque wrench u will fin it takes bugger all to get to the required specs. If u do it by hand u will over-tighten the nuts guaranteed. Which is why all RBs end up with snapped studs on the exhaust manifold....

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Which is why all RBs end up with snapped studs on the exhaust manifold....

RB25s and RB30s not RB26s, they break because they have a long manifold that warps not because they are overtighten.

Don't forget using a swivel ( uni) is not going to be the same tention as the nut you didn't use it on .

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I guarantee all home mechanics who re fit exhaust studs overtighten the nuts.

I don't dispute that but i know thats not the reason they break. They don't brake on RB26s, only RB25 and RB30s , the manifold is so long ....

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